Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Leavitt, Hare, 1981|
|Page Views:||258 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
I first led this 20 years ago. I dimly remember the fun struggle over the crux; I don't recall anything of the upper 5.8/5.9 section. I do recall enjoying the route. I followed it again yesterday.
From the arete rest-ledge, the most obvious option (in the trad-gear-only days) would be to step up and very slightly right to an alluring finger crack in black rock that is about one foot long, place fingers and gear in this, then angle up and left (but only about four feet left) into the obvious arete lieback cracks. The description for the upper part of "My Way" follows the same terrain.
Start ten feet from the car, partway up the dirty ramp that goes up and right to the area under the big roof. Descend by rapping or lowering 100 feet from the anchor chains.