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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haiku S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 10/15/06
Page Views: 207 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Nine climbers and two dogs at Boulder Slips on Sunday 10/15/06; it was Party Time!

This route has a nice mix of climbing: corner, arete, finger crack, and hand/fist crack. It lies halfway between Brand New Bosch and Minutia on the left side of Boulder Slips.

Start at the base of the slab where Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia also start. Climb up broken rock to a right-facing corner between Brand New Bosch and Minutia. Climb the corner past two bolts to a nice ledge (shared with Brand New Bosch). Step right and continue up a right-facing corner and arete past three more bolts to a finger crack. Place a medium wired nut, move up, and place a red Alien or #0.5 purple Camalot. Climb the finger crack to a ledge, then climb a short hand and fist crack in a right-facing corner to the anchors (#2, #3 Camalots, optional #4 Camalot).

Clip the lowering hooks out on the face to the right, and lower 95' back down.

The route can be a little easier (8) or a little harder (9+/10a) depending on how soon you commit to the finger cracks and face midway up.

Location

On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road, at the base of a broken slab. Same start as for Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia.

Protection

5 bolts plus 4-5 gear placements to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Medium wired nut, #0.5, #2, #3 Camalots; optional #4 Camalot.
GrammaSamson
Boulkder, CO
 
GrammaSamson   Boulkder, CO
 
The crack on top needs a #3-#4 to protect... and may be the crux. 1 day ago
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
This one could be anything from 5.7-ish to 5.10a depending on how you go. Going straight up from the last bolt would be harder. Staying left all the time is easier. Careful pulling the rope--there are flakes that could easily catch the rope (as we found out). May 2, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
The rock seemed solid today so most of the loose rock must be gone. This is a good route (not so good with snow in the crack near the anchor). Feb 12, 2014
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
I'd second Nick Wlder's comments about the 5.9 move after the last bolt but would say the offwidth boulder at the problem has a move also worth the grade if you stay inside the offwidth itself.

There is a loose block about parallel with the first bolt: as you clip in to the second bolt, it looks like a natural foothold but moves a little. There is a hollow flake after the last bolt that felt like it'll definitely come away some day but not today. Sounds like Sarah Meiser's climbing partner may have taken the worst of it off, but it's still fragile.

There's also a loose block on the right hand side as you are leaving the first finger crack: you'll see it. Fortunately, it's not even near where you need to be, but I touched it while investigating and it was very loose.

Having said the above, this is one of the best climbs in Boulder Canyon. If the area gets a little clearer of loose rock, the climb itself is exciting. If you're a beginner trad leader, having five bolts immediately beneath you lends a certain sense of reassurance. Just be careful to judge rock condition! Nov 2, 2013
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
 
I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go. Apr 16, 2012
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO). Mar 21, 2009
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route. Mar 2, 2008
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
 
Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise!

Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt. Oct 28, 2007
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing. May 6, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Another nice route with some interesting moves. Crux comes nearer the top when you have to step right back onto the face. Nov 13, 2006