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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haiku S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 184 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on May 8, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun route but not one of the best at the wall. The crux is just above the first bolt moving from a lieback flake to higher rock above. The second bolt is hard to clip, and the whole route may be a bit harder now than the rating as a small foot hold, used by the leader, broke under the weight of the second. Above, the route goes up a shallow crack. We placed a piece near the top.

It is a good idea to build a belay anchor at the start which can be done with medium-sized cams.

Location

This route is between Same As It Ever Was and Quagmire (which is not listed on this site). The next route listed here, to the right, is The Throttle. The start is from a ledge at the top of a hard 4th class, easy 5th class gully/ramp. You can get down using the bolt anchor at the top, and you can descend all the way to the bottom of the approach gully on rappel.

Protection

6 bolts and a small piece of gear. We used a 0.5 Tri Cam. Bob D'Antonio says to bring a 3.5 inch cam, but we saw no place for it. Small cams would work well. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
So... where is "Quagmire?"
I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line.
I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts. May 6, 2017