Type: Trad, TR, 95 ft
FA: Alex Lowe, Greg Davis, and Dan Hare, 1983.
Page Views: 596 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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"The Throttle" climbs a water streak up the steep face left of the arete of The Threshold and My Way. It's harder than the guidebook rating of 5.10 and the protection is very poor. Another route to top-rope from the anchor on My Way (with a directional piece or two near the top of the pitch).

Start about 30' down and left of the My Way arete below a black water streak. There is a bowl about 30' up that you're shooting for. Climb up to a ramp left of the water streak. Ascend a yellow pillar (5.10 layback and stem) to a stance at its top. Step onto a spike of rock and work right to a little bowl and a black water streak. This move is very difficult; at least 5.11 with no pro. The spike of rock has a broken top; maybe the move was easier 20 years ago. Continue up the water streak and veer right at the top to the anchor on My Way. Lower or rappel 95' back down.


On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, below a black water streak, about 30' left of My Way. See the beta photo.


Not much. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way. Place a directional anchor or two near the top of the pitch, since the start is well left of the My Way anchor.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+ R
Step up from flake on sidepulls into the bowl is a harder than average 11 and insecure at least maybe 11c/d?

However, you can get a cordalette tripled over and tied off behind the "spike" I mention triple and tied off so as to be sure that if you sever a strand or two, that you don't end up on the ledge. I'd say use Kevlar, not nylon.

There a yellow or green Alien at the start, which is probably 5.10, then the cord, then a few more Alien options and Camalot options here or there on the 5.10 climbing, which is continuous and insecure, then there is a a green Alien placement at the upper crux which might be 5.10+, so save one for that.

So there is some gear opportunity, but it is infrequent. Yeah, the route is 'R.' May 6, 2017