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Routes in Boulder Slips

Boulder Slips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Brand New Bosch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Colorado Senior Open T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edges and Ledges S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Family Guy T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Giggity-Giggity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Lune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minutia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Minutia Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
My Way T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Time! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumpkin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Same As It Ever Was T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunlight Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Variation T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Threshold, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throttle, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Useless One T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Bob? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1964. FFA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1972
Page Views: 1,317 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Boulder Slips is an old trad route that is seldom climbed these days because of a few spots of poor protection. However, the climbing is good, the crux has decent pro, and the route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.

From the parking pullout, walk up to the shoulder on the right side of crag. The route starts in a big right-facing dihedral with a roof about 40' up.

Climb up the dihedral, past several thin sections, to the roof. Protection is generally good in this area, with small cams and wires. Face climb left just below the roof to a stance on the arete. There is a thin crack under the roof where you can place two black (smallest) Aliens to protect this crux traverse. Above the roof, step right and climb a short slab to a crack (5.6 or 5.7 runout), and continue up the crack and slabs to the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. The last slab section is also a bit runout, but no harder than 5.7.

Stop at the 2-bolt anchor on My Way. From here, it's 85' back down. If you continue up to a pine tree at the top, there is no anchor and it's 110' back down (a 60m rope won't quite make it).

Protection

Up to a #2 Camalot, with emphasis on small to finger-size cams and small wires. Two black Aliens provide protection for the crux moves left under the roof. Ball nuts should work here as well.

The protection up to the roof and through the traverse is generally good with modern cams. The only runouts are in two slab sections above the roof, but the climbing is no harder than 5.7.

The route can be top-roped from the anchor on My Way.

Location

On the right side of the crag at a big right-facing corner capped by a roof.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriously, I saw 6 yellow Alien placements and 4 green Camalot placements on this route, but I only had 2 each.... Sep 17, 2016
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
A black Alien and #5 HB offset at your feet protect the crux section pretty well, above that a nut can be slotted in a groove above you that would probably hold a top rope fall. A few feet more and you get a bomber green/yellow hybrid Alien. Overall, a pretty reasonable lead with offset nuts and cams, get on it! Apr 2, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9 R
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9 R
I top roped this, but the pro looks reasonable. With small cams, I don't think it would be too risky to lead. It would have been risky on the first ascent without cams, unless pitons were used. Jun 7, 2013