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Elevation: 5,614 ft 1,711 m
GPS: 40.0125, -105.308
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,793 total · 180/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.

Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.

L->R:

A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.

B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.

C1. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.

C2. Misdirection?, 11+, 1p, gear.

C3. Pegasus, 11, 1p, gear.

D. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.

ED. ??, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.

E. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.

F. Kangaroof, 11, 3p, 120', gear.

G. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.

H?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.

I. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.

J. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.

K. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.

L. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.

M. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.

Getting There Suggest change

Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.

Descents

Suggest change
There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Third Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 240
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Standard Left Start
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Standard Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Mojo Rising
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Monster Woman
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 76
Left Wing
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 26
Wingtip
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
What's Up?
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
FM
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
 240
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Standard Left Start
 12
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Standard Variation
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Mojo Rising
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Monster Woman
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Left Wing
 76
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Wingtip
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
What's Up?
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
FM
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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