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Third Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Third Buttress
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Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 5,614 ft |
| GPS: | 40.013, -105.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 22,516 total · 147/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall
Details
Apparently, the closure has been lifted.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Description
The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.
Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.
L->R:
A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. Frequency Modulation, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.
L->R:
A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. Frequency Modulation, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Getting There
Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.
Descents
There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.
Classic Climbing Routes at Third Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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