Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Description

The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.

Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.

L->R:

A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. Frequency Modulation, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Reopened after rockfall Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.

Descents

There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.

14 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Third Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Third Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Third Buttress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Does anyone know what the route that goes to the right of the end of the Standard Route on the top part of the Third Elephant Buttress? I got to it by climbing up the far right side of the Third Elephant Buttress. It fires right up twin slightly-overhanging cracks that has a fixed nut in the right one just below the crux. It spit me off a few times today, and I want to know its grade.... for purely selfish reasons. Apr 19, 2009

More About Third Buttress

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Third Buttress (37)

Most Popular · Newest