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Third Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Third Buttress
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Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 5,614 ft |
| GPS: |
40.0125, -105.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 39,132 total · 191/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2022
Details
As of Feb. 2022, per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director for the Boulder Climbing Community, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall
Details
Apparently, the closure has been lifted.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Description
The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.
Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.
L->R:
A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. ??, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.
L->R:
A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. ??, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Getting There
Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.
Descents
There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.
Classic Climbing Routes at Third Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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