Elevation: 5,614 ft
GPS: 40.013, -105.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,962 total · 166/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall Details

Description

The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route, 7+; Monster Woman, 8+; Wingtip, 10c; Left Wing, 10c; What's Up?, 10d; and the impressive FM, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.

Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.

L->R:

A. Feathers, 8+, 1p, gear.
B. Wingtip, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. Frequency Modulation, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
G. FM, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo', 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.

Getting There

Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.

Descents

There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Third Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Standard Left Start
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 200
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Mojo Rising
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Monster Woman
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 7
Ah Maw
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 66
Left Wing
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 21
Wingtip
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
What's Up?
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 40
FM
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Left Start
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route
 200
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mojo Rising
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Monster Woman
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ah Maw
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Left Wing
 66
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Wingtip
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
What's Up?
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
FM
 40
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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