Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Stan Badgett and Frank Prescott in 1966 or 1967
Page Views: 3,814 total · 14/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Dec 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


56 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Contine south around the corner from the start of the Standard Route to a left-facing corner leading up to roof fractured by hand-jam size cracks about 20 feet above the pipe.

P1. Climb past the roof to the upper left corner of the ramp belay stance for Standard Route. Rossiter rates that pitch 8+ (which is slightly sandbagged, in my opinion).

P2. The second pitch ascends a right-facing corner past a rusting but solid knifeblade. It's rated 9 but I had an easier time leading this pitch than following the roof. The gear is a little thin past the pin, but you'll find placements as you make a short traverse right and then head up through overhanging, hand-jamming terrain until the rock lays back for an easy finish.

Recommend doing these two pitches then walking north 100 feet to Classic Finger Crack for dessert. (Rossiter has the second pitch of this route joining Standard Route, but the version I described is more consistent in grade and a more direct line.)

Protection Suggest change

Carry up to a #2 Camalot and some smaller Aliens and Metolius TCUs 1-4. A fixed pin protects the crux on the second pitch

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