Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1979
Page Views: 1,451 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Reopened after rockfall Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route ascends a thin overhanging and left-leaning dihedral up and left of the start of "Left Wing."

Go up the gully as for ""Left Wing," but continue up for about 25 feet more. Place some gear and get your belayer secured in the corner before starting, as a fall getting into the dihedral (hard) could otherwise send you both for a ride. Start climbing up and to the right to enter the dihedral above the overhanging section. Place thin gear as you then ascend the dihedral on some 5.10 moves past gear from "tiny" to 1.5-inch. Finish from the top of the big flake, as for "Left Wing.

This pitch is definitely easier than the like-graded ""Left Wing," but you should be solid at the grade or you will get pumped trying to place gear.

Protection

A standard rack with extra small gear. The route is difficult to protect well, but can take gear. RPs and ballnuts could be placed from strenuous stances to more or less sew it up. Still, do not be at your limit here.

You can TR this pitch from the top of ""Left Wing."

Photos

Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
Climbed this today and did not have a #6 BD like Tommy recommended. It would have been nice to have right off the deck! May 8, 2012
slim

  5.10c PG13
slim    
  5.10c PG13
Every bit of PG-13 on this one. You have to commit to the route before you get gear, and even then you have to fight to get really good gear for it. Aug 29, 2011
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.10 PG13
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.10 PG13
This is a fun route with good liebacking. It is a bit thin off the start but a #6 BD and a blue TCU will keep you from having a bad day. Aside from that, I would take gear to green Camalot possible a red Camalot, but I didn't use it. Aug 5, 2011
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10c
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10c
It is short and sustained. Not worth going out of your way for, but if you are craging around elephant butterss it worth doing. You can protect it with small cams and small nuts. Nov 1, 2004