Type: Trad
FA: T. Fender & J. Burbank. FFA: R. Briggs & L. Studer, '74
Page Views: 6,973 total · 31/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall Details

Description

This route is on the Third Elephant Buttress, on the north side. To access it walk along the pipe till you reach a gully between the Second and Third Buttresses. Scramble about 20 feet up the gully to the base of the climb. This climb follows a left facing dihedral that begins about 40 feet up. The route is to the right of Left Wing and starts up a short face to an obvious, chalked finger crack. Make some challenging moves to gain the finger crack (5.10ish) and follow the crack a few moves to a great rest below the steep part. You can climb up and left to reach higher and get in toprope pro for the start of the crux sequence, then downclimb and fire straight up from the crack. Pull a couple of awkward, strenuous and pumpy moves, mixed in with a few insecure feeling wide stems through the steep bulge. There are a few fixed pins in this section. Where the bulge enters the dihedral is the crux. From a slopey right facing lieback reach around a corner to your left and gain an elusive finger lock. Getting your feet anywhere and shifting into the dihedral is good and balancy, and will have you in doubt until the end. From here, rest and breath and then follow the dihedral up much easier ground to a nice belay ledge. To gain the top climb a short second pitch (5.6). This route has great pro and excellent, challenging moves. I really recommend it to anyone in the area who feels like climbing something harder than what The Dome has to offer.

Protection

Standard trad rack with emphasis on TCUs and small stoppers is good. You don't need anything bigger than a #1 Camalot. Bring some long slings and draws, because there are many fixed pins.

Photos