Type: Trad, TR
FA: Roger Briggs and Art Higbee, 1972
Page Views: 6,363 total · 28/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Aug 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall Details

Description

Cool route with interesting moves. My limited trad experience kept my evaluation to a modest two stars.

The route starts about halfway up the 4th class gully between the second and third buttresses. The climb itself is on the third Buttress. Begin by traversing right across a ledge into the obvious dihedral. Some small, good placements will get you up to a new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux. Clip this and then a fixed Friend in the overhead crack. My buddy whipped on this, so the Friend holds, but you may want to back it up with a #0.5 Camalot. Crank through the crux, and resist placing gear in the shallow undercling crack, as it may not hold anyway. Once back on good holds, place some gear and traverse left through the second crux, a left, diagonal undercling crack. The moves on this are sweet and kind of sporty. Pull through this to a no hands rest below a roof. Put in a #1 and crank through the 5.9 roof to 20 feet of easy climbing. Protect the top mantle, and once on top you can set up a great anchor and TR some of the other climbs, or this one.

Protection

Rack up to a #1 Friend. You may be able to place a #2 somewhere, but this isn't really necessary. Doubles on .5, .75, and #1 cams is nice.

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