Type: Trad, TR
FA: Roger Briggs and Art Higbee, 1972
Page Views: 7,512 total · 27/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Aug 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

76 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Cool route with interesting moves. My limited trad experience kept my evaluation to a modest two stars.

The route starts about halfway up the 4th class gully between the second and third buttresses. The climb itself is on the third Buttress. Begin by traversing right across a ledge into the obvious dihedral. Some small, good placements will get you up to a new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux. Clip this and then a fixed Friend in the overhead crack. My buddy whipped on this, so the Friend holds, but you may want to back it up with a #0.5 Camalot. Crank through the crux, and resist placing gear in the shallow undercling crack, as it may not hold anyway. Once back on good holds, place some gear and traverse left through the second crux, a left, diagonal undercling crack. The moves on this are sweet and kind of sporty. Pull through this to a no hands rest below a roof. Put in a #1 and crank through the 5.9 roof to 20 feet of easy climbing. Protect the top mantle, and once on top you can set up a great anchor and TR some of the other climbs, or this one.

Protection Suggest change

Rack up to a #1 Friend. You may be able to place a #2 somewhere, but this isn't really necessary. Doubles on .5, .75, and #1 cams is nice.