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Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,005 total, 49/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


180 Opinions

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Reopened after rockfall Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start right on the water pipe to the left of a small roof. Scamper up the dihedral to a belay at the end of the ramp. Move right up the roof and right again to the next crack. Follow this to a break, turn left and finish on the last crack to the summit.

Descent: walkoff to the North.

Protection

Standard rack.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.8-
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.8-
Really an enjoyable route, could always find gear whenever you wanted, get your feet high up on good holds for the second crux roof and reach for decent holds up high. Cruise city. 3 days ago
Bruce M
  5.7+
Bruce M  
  5.7+
Wow, this was a total blast! I've actually done this route 3-4 times and the crux 6-8 times (via either Std Route or Monster Woman) but all were 25-30 years ago, and while I remembered the general appearance of the overhanging section, I'd completely forgotten the specifics of the moves. Before we went up this, I watched a guy go halfway up and then back off to the right to easier rock. I think his mistake was trying to go up about 3 feet too far to the left, rather than looking for the obvious footholds. It's a little tricky, but the protection is bomb proof and with a little time and awareness, I was able to get up it without much difficulty or strength involved. 5.7+ seems right, maybe 8-. Without giving it away, I'll just say it's all in the foot placement, but I didn't have to stem very wide, (certainly nowhere near as wide as that one photo) which is good since my right hip is pretty arthritic and doesn't take well to that kind of thing. I did The Owl last week and thought that was much harder, both the jam crack on P1 (which I thought was the crux) and the stem on the P2 roof, which was way wider for me. For the record, I'm 5'9"., but back to the Std Rte: great rock, steep and exposed...I also enjoyed the first pitch. 3 stars for sure! Oct 18, 2017
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
 
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
 
At 6'4" I thought this route was difficult at the crux. Maybe I am too tall or just suck at stemming. I stayed left of the fixed pin. I would say it's harder than 5.7 but a really fun route though. Aug 16, 2016
I climbed this two days ago, and it was wonderful. Unfortunately, we were running out of light and got a cam stuck 20 feet from the summit...so we had to leave it. My friend went back the next day to retrieve it, and it was gone. If you found it, please contact me, so I can get it back. Thank you. Climberboy228@gmail.com Jul 16, 2016
Yesterday morning I on-sight soloed this route. After warming up on East Slab, I hiked down and approached the Elephant Buttress. Balancing my way down the pipe, I found myself at what I assumed to be the beginning. I booted up and entered the relatively dicey movement into and over the small, initial roof. Once up the thin, fun crack and over the second small roof, I was let loose onto the slab that coincided the crux roof. My first attempt of the roof was thwarted by the lack of vision. My confidence waned under the unknown. I returned to the slab to gather motivation and visualize, despite the assumption I would eventually have to back down. I decided to, at the very least, try the exposed, overhang (topped with a ledge) to right of the route. I hoped it would be a simple powerful move to crank over into freedom. Yet after hand traversing over the void, I found no graceful, safe solution. I quickly traversed back onto the route and de-pumped. In the process of retreating, I had this feeling of an unexplainable pull towards and up the crux. I found the stem. I saw the sequence. I told myself not to fall and to stay on, while I cautiously discovered the way. The rest of the climb went smoothly and was great fun. I believe the only reason I stood on the summit is because I truly imagined myself there and nowhere else. One's mind is everything. Feb 6, 2013
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
 
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
 
Best if done as one pitch. There is no reason to take the time to set up a belay. Sep 1, 2012
Fiona Dunne
Boulder, CO
Fiona Dunne   Boulder, CO
Instead of starting the climb from the left of the small roof, we started from just to the right of the pipe cable and small roof, standing just between the water pipe and the rock. Then traverse left immediately after getting onto the rock. Jul 21, 2012
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.7+
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.7+
Good climb. Crux at start of p2 is great, but rest of climb is a bit dull. Spice it up by climbing off immediately to the left of the V-ramp that starts p1 - 5.7G as opposed to 5.5 or 5.6. Both pitches have excellent pro across the range to 3". The slightly slabby face at the very end looks wicked fun but clearly run out, so I'm scared -- probably 5.9? May 10, 2012
Zane E
Lyons, CO
Zane E   Lyons, CO
Yeah, my partner led and belayed just above the crux which was helpful because it was tough! Also went to the right of the roof instead...still hard though. Oct 4, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Great climb -- but I think the difficulty is height dependent. Not too bad for me (5'10"), but very challenging for my wife (5'2") trying to stem up under the "roof" at the pitch two crux. Also, the river noise was very loud with the high water -- very tough (okay, impossible) to communicate from belay station on top to climber at the crux on the 2nd pitch. Nevertheless, a great climb! Jul 16, 2011
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
I found CFK to be a lot harder. The bulge on the "2nd pitch" is tricky until you do it a couple of times, then it is mellow yellow. Apr 4, 2011
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
 
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
 
Wow, 5.7+? I found this harder than either Classic Finger Crack (5.9) or Zolar Czakl (5.9+) today. And I am tall and was on a top rope! Aug 22, 2010
Kyle Anderson
Payson, AZ
Kyle Anderson   Payson, AZ
I think I got off route... at the old, beat up fixed pin on the second pitch, I went right on a couple of jugs. What was this, if anything? Sep 14, 2009
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
It can be kinda hard to find the start of this route because there are a lot of really fun looking lines along the pipe. Look on the left for a long chain bolted from the rock at eye level and slightly left and then another large bolt directly on the route.

Did this yestarday and it was definitely a lot of fun although I'll admit the crux was somewhat intimidating. Mar 4, 2009
Dean Carpenter
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Carpenter   Boulder, CO
 
We forgot to bring the nut tool today, and I couldn't clean a #7 BD stopper from a horizontal crack on P2. It'll probably come out pretty easy with a tool. Fun climb. Oct 20, 2007
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
It sounds as if Matt Chan did what I did today - that is did the first pitch of Standard Route and then linked this up with the second pitch of Monster Woman. I don't know if it merits it, but I have put this route up as Standard Variation as I am sure that many people have done what both Matt and I have done. It is a nice line, but more consistently 5.8. Apr 28, 2007
Tradsplatter
Boulder, CO
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
Hopped on Standard Route today. It was quite windy but had some sunshine, too. The crux sure seemed like 5.8 or 8+ to me today...maybe it's just getting back into the swing of things after long winters nap?! Snow is all melted off at the water pipe thanks to the warm weather. Mar 8, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
My first climb in Boulder Canyon. What a great way to get on some rock after work on a Friday. Cold and drizzle, or not, it was still lots of fun. Sep 26, 2006
JamesB  
Fun route. I am 6' even, and found the crux to be full of secure stems that made placing pro easy. It is easy to protect the crux with as much pro as you feel like putting in. Definitely able to do the route in one pitch with one 60 m rope. Sep 11, 2006
Jo Holloway  
 
That profound stem on the second pitch, as demonstrated by the photo of Phil Broscovak, is a little rough if you are around 5'6" or so. There are a few decent face holds off to the left that can help the height-challenged climber shimmy up this section. Aug 7, 2006
I felt the crux of the first pitch was less secure and more dangerous than the roof crux on the second pitch. Wide stemming on the roof keeps this climb feeling like 5.7. I'd give it 2.5 stars, but I rounded up.-s Jun 8, 2005
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
  5.7
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
  5.7
That pipe at the bottom is really leaky. Got my shoes and rope all wet before I even started. [Definitely] get geared up in the flat area to the left below the descent gully.

Also, I got my rope caught on a [piece] of cable hanging out of the pipe when pulling the rope up at the top of the second pitch. This led to me free soloing to the top, walking down, unsnagging the rope at the bottom, climbing back to the top, down climbing back to my anchor, and continuing the climb. Is there a better way to handle this situation or avoid it all together? I need a giant hook to stack my rope when I pull it up or something. Maybe a number 6 Camalot would do the trick..

That being said, I really like taking the cave back to the packs. Even when it's full of water. The down climb in the gully seemed a bit scary, almost rappel worthy (or did I miss the rap anchor as well?) Jun 2, 2005
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
The crux on the second pitch is definitely easier for taller people. I lead this route with no difficulty (I'm 6'0"), but my partner on a recent trip (5'3") really struggled, and she leads at a higher grade than I do. As with any roof-ish crux, the key is getting your feet high, but to do that, you must stem wide, and I find myself doing pretty acrobatic splits at this crux. Mar 16, 2005
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7+
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7+
AC of 6/12/04 - it's just you. The crux alone is at least two number grades harder than anything on the East Slab. That said, the Standard Route is very well protected throughout and is mucho fun! Without any topo we mistakenly traversed left under the second (after crux) roof and up a left facing corner with a crease to the top - felt consistant with the 7 grade. Aug 16, 2004
I don't feel sandbagged at all on this and, in fact, find it only half a grade harder than east slab of Dome across the way and even then only at the crux. But I do it a little to the right of the white line after the crux. Try this and then east slab of dome. If you can send it then maybe the ratings are correct. (After all, it could be just me!) Jun 12, 2004
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Take the + in this 5.7 rating seriously. While the crux isn't too tough to pass with lots of stemming, it is pretty steep and stout for a 7. Aug 11, 2003
We did this route this a.m. and went right (15 feet or so ) of the stemming crux out on to an slighty overhanging face with some big vertical cracks and two old fixed pins. Kinda hard but well protected.Is this part of another route? Aug 10, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I have taken relatively inexperienced climbers on this route and think it's the best climb of its difficulty near Boulder for this kind of outing. Great rock, tricky crux, easy access, nice views, and summer shade. Aug 3, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
The action photo below states the climber is on the P1 belay of Standard Route. This is incorrect, he is actually belaying from the top of P1 on the West Face variation route, which is down to the south of the Standard route on the 3rd Buttress. May 11, 2003
Tonya Clement
Boulder, CO
Tonya Clement   Boulder, CO
Done yesterday after work. Great climb on cool days as the sun keeps you warm. Wonderful lead as the crux (start of the second pitch) protects well. It looks much more intimidating than it really is. Stem and work your feet up until you find enough to grab and go. Actually, for some odd reason, I tend to struggle mentally more on the start of the first pitch. Maybe this is harder given a fall would be a bit dangerous. It just seems a little bulgy and requires trusting the feet with only a small finger hold/crack with the left hand and slopers for the right hand.

I agree with Ron and I always go through the tunnel even yesterday when the water was six inches above my knees. Its actually is good therapy after your feet have been in hot climbing shoes.

My favorite 5.7 route in Boulder! Apr 10, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Morning shade makes this a good climb for a hot day. Doing the climb in two pitches facilitates communication if you've got a less-experienced partner. If the drainage ditch is dry, the quickest descent goes down the backside and angles right to the tunnel between the 3rd and 4th buttresses. Watch out for poison ivy. Grope your way through the cool depths of the tunnel (dry with one wet spot on 8/10/02) and walk the pipe back to the start. Aug 10, 2002
I wasn't aware that people do this in two pitches. The route was pointed out to me from the road and it goes quite naturally in a single pitch with a 50 m rope. Yes, use long slings in the appropriate places, but as a trad leader you already know that, right? Breaking it up seems somewhat pointless. Jun 17, 2002
Did this route on Feb 16 2001 2 days after a snow storm. There was still some snow/ice in the bottoms of the cracks at the begginning which made the already scarybeginning trickier, but it was still doable. I'd recommend parties wait until the sun has definitely cleared it off. Also, Rossiter's guide recommends a belay at the top of the initial ramp which is pretty mis-matched. I think a better spot is to belay after the middle "funky" roof section where there is a sloping flaring crack at your feet and a hand crack that shoots directly left. That breaks the pitches up nicely. If you used long runners in appropriate places you could link it all into one pitch. It's definitely fun, though. Feb 16, 2002
I did this in Oct. of 99 with my Italian friend Matteo, and the rock was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers and hands--good thing I let him lead it. ;-) The crux was pretty tricky for a 5.7, just as the final Cozyhang/Owl roof is.

This is number 1 in the picture. Jan 1, 2001
Rick - Climbed with friend Chris on 5/18/01. Chris led P1 and I led P2. Good pro everywhere, but crux is kind of funky. I just reached high, smeared, and willed myself over. Jan 1, 2001