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Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Rob Candelaria and Tom Lacomer, 1973.
Page Views: 872 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after rockfall Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The gear is fairly good, but there is a small runout onto the face at the 10a crux move. It is a fair route with a few good moves.

Location

This route is on the left side of the cave at the end of the water pipe. Follow the blunt dihedral and pull on to the face via a 10a move. After this, you have passed the crux, so you have a number of options as to how the route can be finished.

Protection

SR.

Photos

On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress.

We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I had to make a few balancy moves (the crux at 5.10b?) left and up to a finger crack. The remainder of the pitch was easy and finished just below the top. Walk off right to the top of the gully.

We grade this at probably 5.10b, 110 feet. A standard rack up to a #3 Camalot and a rack of nuts with a few long runners suffices to protect this route. Jun 4, 2010