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Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,968 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Reopened after rockfall Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

P1. Start on the water pipe almost in the tunnel. Sling a pipe anchor, move up on an arete of sorts. Aim for the right side of the small roof/overlap. Continue up this face following cracks and lichen. Pass 2 pins. Choose left or right above the second pin. From here, you can go up or angle right along a ramp past a small tree to a huge ledge.

P2. You may traverse left and connect with the finish of the Standard Route.

Watch for rope drag. This may feel a bit stiff for the grade.

Protection

Standard rack to a #2 Camalot.

Photos

Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
We did the tunnel twice yesterday. I highly recommend this when there is water in it. You have to stow your gear above your waist and roll up your shorts. The water was very refreshing, and I don't think (?) it can get much higher than right under the crotch. If your shoes are tight, it's a treat squishing through the nice cool muck for a couple of minutes. Aug 18, 2003
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
I know all that, (did the dry route twice last week)...But you gotta try it when full, at least once - it's actually quite a trip! Aug 30, 2002
Not only is it bone dry most of the year, but it's also pretty damn easy just to walk around the elephant buttress or down the gully just NW of the stone, lol. But I DO have you guys to thank for the photo and the imagery of people actually attempting to chunnel through whilst it's filled with water. Next time perhaps you guys will try a more practical route? Aug 30, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The spelunking return was recommended by a friend, and we too suffered through the dark, cold, wet slot. I immediately contacted the friend, and asked her how she could recommend such a horrible hole where I had to bend down so much half my rack was dragging through the water. Turns out she had never done it when there was water in the aqueduct. I don't know the schedule, but at least half the year it is bone dry. Aug 7, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
A worthy variation to this variation is to work out onto the slab left of the normal start (with thin pro) and follow the cracks aiming for the left side of the roof, passing two pitons en route. Traversing back right under the roof is a gas.

For your return to your pack on the aqueduct, a wade through the tunnel between Buttress III and IV, without a headlamp (in the pitch black), barefoot, and up to your waist in water is a character building treat not to be missed. Jul 23, 2002