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Routes in Third Buttress

Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frequency Modulation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonne Von Grebe, 1991.
Page Views: 2,889 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details
Reopened after rockfall Details

Description

An interesting route on the third buttress with some fun roofs and jamming. Follow the trail on the N. side of the creek until you can ascend a path below the second buttress. Then hike on the water pipe until you've just passed the mess of cables attached to the rock (toward the right end of the 3rd Buttress).

This route is normally done in two pitches, but can be lead as one pitch with a 50m without too much rope drag. Start with Standard Route, which moves up on the ramp to the right of the cables and then traverses left into the dihedral. Scamper up this section at about 5.7 then hike a long slab to the first belay--or--continue straight up the dihedral on the left. A fixed pin is at the crux, which involves some tricky footwork with a small flair for the hands up to a knob. Stem up the rest of the dihedral then move right under a roof, up a wide crack, then over a small roof with good holds. Crank the roof then make another 5.9 move across a slab with a finger tip crack on the right (insert RP here). Utilize the excellent friction over the second crux, then crank the second roof to a ledge with a good belay. Scramble off to the left and up to the top. Descend by hiking North toward the Dome and down a gully to the North of the 2nd Buttress.

A fun route with varied climbing and good moves.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3".

Photos

Nathaniel Dray
Fort Collins
 
Nathaniel Dray   Fort Collins
 
Too greasy and disjointed for 3 stars but worth an after work climb for the two very fun and distinct crux sections. Jun 18, 2015
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I've done Standard Route a bunch of times over the years, but I never did this one. It's my new favorite pitch on the Elephant Buttresses! I didn't need any gear bigger than a #1 Camalot except for my anchor up top....

Hard to imagine that this went unclimbed until '91?? Especially with the old rusty pins and rusty old chopped bolt. Jun 22, 2011
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
 
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
 
A biner fits fine in the piton. It looks like a new one has been driven in.... Jun 4, 2010
crankenstein
  5.9
crankenstein  
  5.9
An excellent pitch with climbing that is more sustained than the normal Standard Route. The pin is driven such that a biner will not fit, but it is easy to thread it with a sling. Many fun and interesting moves along the way. 3 star pitch in my opinion. Oct 15, 2009
Aeon Aki

  5.9
Aeon Aki    
  5.9
This thing is a walk in the park- Central park- at 2 am. Oct 4, 2007
I almost forgot, first of all leftern is not a word. You go left after the pin, under the left roof, around the bulge that fills the space between the two routes to meet variation (what is called mojo rising here). Climb on! Jul 24, 2002
You have actually given the description for a route that Rossiter has called "Variation." To do Mojo Rising as Rossiter described climb up the same shallow dihedral after the belay on P1, clip the pin, but instead of climbing right and out through the roofs you must climb left, traversing slimy jams underneath the leftern roof and then up and around to meet with Variation at the .8 section 10-20 feet from the top. Joyful climbing! Jul 22, 2002

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