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Routes in Third Buttress
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Ah Maw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Feathers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FM T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kangaroof T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Wing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mojo Rising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monster Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Mo' Jo' T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Standard Left Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face (variation) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What's Up? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wingtip T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Bonne Von Grebe, 1991. |
| Page Views: | 4,343 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on May 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall
Details
Apparently, the closure has been lifted.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress WAS closed due to rockfall in the area. There were signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing.
Description
An interesting route on the third buttress with some fun roofs and jamming. Follow the trail on the N. side of the creek until you can ascend a path below the second buttress. Then hike on the water pipe until you've just passed the mess of cables attached to the rock (toward the right end of the 3rd Buttress).
This route is normally done in two pitches, but can be lead as one pitch with a 50m without too much rope drag. Start with Standard Route, which moves up on the ramp to the right of the cables and then traverses left into the dihedral. Scamper up this section at about 5.7 then hike a long slab to the first belay--or--continue straight up the dihedral on the left. A fixed pin is at the crux, which involves some tricky footwork with a small flair for the hands up to a knob. Stem up the rest of the dihedral then move right under a roof, up a wide crack, then over a small roof with good holds. Crank the roof then make another 5.9 move across a slab with a finger tip crack on the right (insert RP here). Utilize the excellent friction over the second crux, then crank the second roof to a ledge with a good belay. Scramble off to the left and up to the top. Descend by hiking North toward the Dome and down a gully to the North of the 2nd Buttress.
A fun route with varied climbing and good moves.
This route is normally done in two pitches, but can be lead as one pitch with a 50m without too much rope drag. Start with Standard Route, which moves up on the ramp to the right of the cables and then traverses left into the dihedral. Scamper up this section at about 5.7 then hike a long slab to the first belay--or--continue straight up the dihedral on the left. A fixed pin is at the crux, which involves some tricky footwork with a small flair for the hands up to a knob. Stem up the rest of the dihedral then move right under a roof, up a wide crack, then over a small roof with good holds. Crank the roof then make another 5.9 move across a slab with a finger tip crack on the right (insert RP here). Utilize the excellent friction over the second crux, then crank the second roof to a ledge with a good belay. Scramble off to the left and up to the top. Descend by hiking North toward the Dome and down a gully to the North of the 2nd Buttress.
A fun route with varied climbing and good moves.
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