Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonne Von Grebe, 1991.
Page Views: 3,355 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details
Access Issue: Reopened after rockfall Details

Description

An interesting route on the third buttress with some fun roofs and jamming. Follow the trail on the N. side of the creek until you can ascend a path below the second buttress. Then hike on the water pipe until you've just passed the mess of cables attached to the rock (toward the right end of the 3rd Buttress).

This route is normally done in two pitches, but can be lead as one pitch with a 50m without too much rope drag. Start with Standard Route, which moves up on the ramp to the right of the cables and then traverses left into the dihedral. Scamper up this section at about 5.7 then hike a long slab to the first belay--or--continue straight up the dihedral on the left. A fixed pin is at the crux, which involves some tricky footwork with a small flair for the hands up to a knob. Stem up the rest of the dihedral then move right under a roof, up a wide crack, then over a small roof with good holds. Crank the roof then make another 5.9 move across a slab with a finger tip crack on the right (insert RP here). Utilize the excellent friction over the second crux, then crank the second roof to a ledge with a good belay. Scramble off to the left and up to the top. Descend by hiking North toward the Dome and down a gully to the North of the 2nd Buttress.

A fun route with varied climbing and good moves.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3".

Photos