Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Second Buttress

Avalon Rising T,S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephantiasis T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Pine Tree Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tough Situation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,023 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route climbs a short distance up the dihedral between the Second and Third Elephant Buttresses a few feet before traversing left into a good crack system. Then, (about halfway up the pitch) the route takes off upwards, then left on multiple easy cracks toward a large pine-tree on a ledge. Good jams, good face-holds, and good feet. The gear is quite reasonable, although there are a few spots between cracks where it will not be overhead.

This system appears at the right hand edge of the attached photo.

Protection

Bring a standard rack with doubles of 1"-3" cams for beginning leaders.

Eds. From time to time, slings and rings/links appear on the tree for rappel.

Descents

Eds. There are at least 3 descents possible here:

1. Scramble/walk off left to the gully between the first Elephant Buttress and the Dome. This is probably the safest way off.

2. If there are slings here, you can rappel 85-100' from the tree.

3. You can also down scramble to the aqueduct between the 3rd & 4th Elephant Buttress. When it is dry, it is casual. When it is wet, it can be invigorating to intimidating.

JFM
 
JFM  
 
Added a quicklink. A loop of tubular webbing on the (weirdly tied) slings indicated someone previously rapped off of the nylon. Mar 21, 2016
Rick Casey
Lafayette, Colorado
Rick Casey   Lafayette, Colorado
Just for everyone's information: some idiot removed the rap rings on the slings on the tree at the top of the route, which I discovered yesterday (12/9/15). There was a single mini-biner there, so I added a locking biner. It would be nice if someone replaced these with real rap rings again...though it's about time that some rap bolts were put here, and stop abusing the tree. Dec 10, 2015
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
 
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
 
Ok, easy route. Climbed this because a thunderstorm was rolling in, and we figured we could climb it quickly. Had a couple fun moves but no more than 5.4 overall. Descended trail between 1st EB and Dome in a pretty good rain-SLICK! Jun 6, 2015
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.4
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.4
Phenomenal 5.4. Probably the best first lead for anyone ever, or, as I like to do, mix it into your Boulder Canyon soloing circuit. Jul 25, 2014
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
 
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
 
Not a bad route. Maybe a couple moves I would consider harder than 5.5. Currently a very new looking sling around the tree. Jun 29, 2012
Sean Haney
  5.6
Sean Haney  
  5.6
Seems like the one move at the headwall with the hand crack that widens in the back is harder than 5.5, and quite a bit harder if you're short. At 5'11", I was stretching for the bomber hold up and left. Great pro though. I was practicing with hexes, and placed all 3 I had borrowed. One sling, and one thin (aluminum I think) rap ring on the tree, but the walk off up top was easy. Fun route! Nov 13, 2011
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.5
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.5
Great route. Pro is abundant, but placements can be tricky since the cracks are pretty irregular. Bigger gear than recommended can be useful-- I easily used both my #3 and #4 BD C4s. Aug 17, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Multiple slings and a rap ring on this tree as of today. Oct 3, 2008
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
I was looking for something casual on the Elephant Buttresses (and something in the shade) and found this one. Pretty straight-forward, with a couple of bulgy moves where height doesn't hurt; my 5'5" wife had a lot of trouble with the first bulge. 10' below the tree, I headed far to the right on an airy, thin ledge which added a nice finish to the route. Still no rap slings, but the walk-off through the tunnel is easy and lots of fun! Apr 9, 2006
ac
ac  
Don't forget the irrigation tunnel if you want a second alternative for an easy walk off, water or no water. If someone needs to bail off of EB, let them leave some gear. Things can get pretty desperate up there when a storm blows in.

Anyone could leave some slings if they had to rappel off the tree and found no slings, so it isn't making it more dangerous.... Aug 16, 2005
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
The walk-off between the Elephant Buttresses and the Dome is casual and not very far. The slings wear away the tree and could/will eventually kill it. There is no reason for a rap station to be there.

casey Aug 16, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
As of 8/15/05, someone has removed the rappel anchor (multiple slings and two rap rings) from the tree atop this route. I hope to get back here later this week and replace the anchor.

I wonder why someone would do this? Pine Tree Route is a standard rap route; these weren't bail slings. The 4th-class downclimb between the 2nd and 3rd Elephant Buttresses is tricky and exposed; not a pleasant alternative.

I wish the people responsible for this would act in the spirit of service to the climbing community instead of making things more difficult and dangerous for others. Aug 15, 2005
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
This is a good route-fun!

You can reach safe ground, barely, with a 50m rope from the tree. May 26, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A good choice for a beginner leader though will make the beginner think in places, takes a variety of pro well. The route does end at a Pine Tree with some rappel rings, but perhaps a better choice for belaying your second is to sling the huge flake a few feet behind the tree. (this can also be backed up with pro) this puts you in a more solid position for belaying rather than hanging off the tree. Jul 27, 2003
Fun climb !!! Good beginner route, plenty of pro and good holds. About 10 feet below the pine tree, there is a choice of two crack systems.... I thought the right-hand option was easier. May 5, 2003
This is a good warm-up/beginner route since the angle is less than vertical and all the jams/jugs are bomber. I led it with 1 set up to 2.5" and was ok. Unless you follow a straight line here, bring long slings and place judiciously to avoid rope drag hell. Do it in the winter w/a pack for an alpine feel. Aug 31, 2002