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River Wall

Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

A unique climbing area perched above Clear Creek. The setting is beautiful and there is essentially no approach; you just have to put up with the quarry trucks roaring through the tunnel. Tricky slab routes on the lower part of the wall, and more varied, powerful climbs on the upper half. There are a number of truly enjoyable climbs here. Most climbs are accessed via a large ledge split in two by a giant boulder (see picture). This ledge caps the lower series of climbs and forms the base of the upper set. There are two means of accessing this central area: The Put In (5.7) heads up from road level just a few yards away from the start of the bridge railing. From these anchors, you can climb Overflow or traverse right along the ledge (5.2) past a few bolts to reach the left side of the main ledge. Walk along the wall down to the river, where you can climb Bottom Side Down (5.10d) straight up to the left side of the main ledge. The right side of the belay ledge can be accessed by squeezing behind the boulder (take your pack off first!). River Wall requires a 60m rope and some forethought in rope management. A note on leading the lower climbs: rap down on one rope and carry a second to lead out on. Each of the lower climbs has a 2-bolt belay station just above the water where the belayer will have to mind the rope as much as the climber. (Dry treated rope will do no good if it's floating down the river.) Alternatively, on your way down you can hang draws and clip in one end of your rap line. At the bottom, pulling the rap line down through the draws should keep your rope from flying down into the drink.

This crag is generally in the shade.

Getting There

River Wall is right across the river from High Wire. Get on US 6 from Golden, going west. The wall is on the east side of the bridge immediately east of Tunnel 2 (4.9 miles from Tunnel 1). It's best to park on the north side of the highway, about 1/4 mile east Tunnel 2. From the cars, walk west toward the bridge & tunnel, but stay south-east of the bridge (that is, don't cross over the bridge as though going to High Wire). The wall is right there on the south-east corner of the bridge.

L->R:

Wall left:

A. Evil, 13, 1p, bolts.

Lower Wall:

B1. The Put In, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.

B2. Original Route, 9 PG-13, 1p, 60', gear & old bolts.

C. Muddy Waters, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.

D. Old Man River, 10, 1p, bolts, 85'.

E1. Up A Creek, 11, 1p, bolts.

E2. Float Trip, 12-, 1p, bolts.

F. Bottom Side Down, 10+, 1p, 85', bolts.

G. The River Mild, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.

GH. Grilled Trout, 10+, 1p, bolts, linkup.

H. Grilled Trout, 10+, 1p, 85', bolts.

I. Take Me To The River, 11-, 1p, 85', bolts.

J. Flood Control, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.

K? Kor Route, 1p, 85', gear.

L? Family Unit, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.

M. Riffle, 2, traverse along ledge between lower & upper walls.

Upper Wall:

L. Overflow, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.

M. The River Wild, 12+, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.

N. Viagra Falls, 12, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.

O. White Water, 12-, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.

P. Splash, 11, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.

Q. Adventure Kayak Trundle, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

S. River Dance, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

T. River Jam, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.

U. Slacker, 12-, 1p, bolts.

V. Human Rites, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

W. Right to Life, 12-, 1p, bolts.

X. Right To Laugh, 9+, 1p, bolts. Location?

Y1. Water Sports, 9+, 1p, 120', bolts.

Y2. Clear Water Revival, 9, 1p, 115', bolts.

Y3. River Walk, 10+, 3p, 225', bolts & gear.

Z1. Beach Front, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

Z2. Goin' Fishin', 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.

Nelsonator I, location?

Nelsonator II, location?

Nelsonator III, location?

(*) = a 60m rope is preferred for descent due to the overhanging nature of the route & the falling away of the terrain below the anchors.

Routes from Left to Right

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 18
Evil
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 85
The Put In
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Original Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Muddy Waters
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
Old Man River
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Up A Creek
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Float Trip
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
Bottom Side Down
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
The River Mild
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
River Grill
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Grilled Trout
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Take Me to the River
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Flood Control
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Overflow
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
The River Wild
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Viagra Falls
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
White Water
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 21
Splash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Adventure Kayak Trundle
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
River Dance
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 14
River Jam
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Slacker
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Human Rites
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Right to Life
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
Right To Laugh
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 4
Water Sports Direct Start
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Water Sports
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Clear Water Revival
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
River Walk
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Beach Front
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Goin' Fishin'
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Evil
 18
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Put In
 85
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Original Route
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Muddy Waters
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Old Man River
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Up A Creek
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Float Trip
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bottom Side Down
 58
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
The River Mild
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
River Grill
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Grilled Trout
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Take Me to the River
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Flood Control
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Overflow
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The River Wild
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Viagra Falls
 11
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
White Water
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Splash
 21
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Adventure Kayak Trundle
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
River Dance
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
River Jam
 14
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Slacker
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Human Rites
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Right to Life
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Right To Laugh
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Water Sports Direct Start
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Water Sports
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Clear Water Revival
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
River Walk
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Beach Front
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Goin' Fishin'
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't park near the crag, this could happen, or at least you'll get ticketed.
[Hide Photo] Don't park near the crag, this could happen, or at least you'll get ticketed.
The River Wall.<br>
<br>
[[L->R]]http://www.mountainproject.com/v/river-wall/105744714 for the crag.
[Hide Photo] The River Wall. L->R for the crag.
Maybe if I pull really hard on the rope, I can get my partner through the Snead Slot?!
[Hide Photo] Maybe if I pull really hard on the rope, I can get my partner through the Snead Slot?!
Climber on the River Wall.
[Hide Photo] Climber on the River Wall.
There were 2 climbers climbing number 10 in the beta photo on 8/12/06 (Why isn't there a key to the beta photo!).  If this is you and you'd like more pics, let me know.  I asked one of you where High Wire Crag was.
[Hide Photo] There were 2 climbers climbing number 10 in the beta photo on 8/12/06 (Why isn't there a key to the beta photo!). If this is you and you'd like more pics, let me know. I asked one of you where Hi…
Mark Rolofson leading the route listed as number 13 in the beta photo of the River Wall.  We don't know the name of the route yet, so I put it on the intro page.  Super steep and exposed, 5.11, juggy roof to a hand crack.  To whoever put this route in:  Thank you for all the hard work!  This may be the best pitch in the canyon, even though some of the blocks and flakes are a little scary.  After my first go, I taped my hands.  Mark thought the jams were good enough to do without the tape glove though.
[Hide Photo] Mark Rolofson leading the route listed as number 13 in the beta photo of the River Wall. We don't know the name of the route yet, so I put it on the intro page. Super steep and exposed, 5.11, jug…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Cavallaro
Lone Tree, CO
[Hide Comment] There has been a lot of new routes developed on the right side of this crag, but the pictures do not detail route locations. Can anyone provide any info on where each route is? Maybe a left to right description of the newer routes starting to the right of Adventure Kayak trundle? Slacker looks to be awesome! Jun 7, 2004
Mark MacClary
Denver
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the project to the right of River Dance goes at? Oct 1, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This crag has quite a few ants at it along the base of many of the climbs. Be cautious as to where you set up belays or set things like your pack or rack down at to avoid getting swarmed by them later. Jul 19, 2020