Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ruckman Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Run 
Bloody Corner 
Bolt Action 
Bovine Impact 
Call the Cops 
Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender") 
Choss Family Robinson 
Cooch 
Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) 
Extended Family 
Firearms 
First Steps 
Head Full of Lead 
In Your Face 
Kielbasa Run 
Le Frimeur 
Loose Cannon 
Nessun Dorma 
Noble Wife 
Pellet Gun 
Pinch Fest 
Prime Evil 
Prime the Pump 
Prime Time 
Primer 
Promise, The 
Red Dawn 
Rolling Log, The 
Route 
Shibumi 
Smoking Gun 
Street Knowledge 
Supre Guide 
Waiting For 21 
When the Levee Breaks 
Unsorted Routes:

When the Levee Breaks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter, Scott Nykerk, and Mark Regier
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 26, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in th...

Description 

When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in between Supre Guide and the Cooch Cave.

Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.

I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing, etc. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.


Location 

Located to the right of the Ruckman Cave proper, this route climbs a gray streak 150+ feet to the left of Supre Guide. It is best approached by parking at the Ruckman Cave and hiking up the road past the spot where the creek goes under the road. A faint climbers' trail (not the Koper Trail) goes up the hilll along the wall and leads to Supre Guide. Alternatively, you can also easily park at the campground and hike down canyon to this area. Look for the glue-in bolts.


Protection 

9 glue-in bolts and the anchor.



Comments on When the Levee Breaks Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -