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Ruckman Cave
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Unsorted Routes:

When the Levee Breaks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter, Scott Nykerk, and Mark Regier
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 26, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in th...

Description 

When the Levee Breaks climbs the gray streak in between Supre Guide and the Cooch Cave.

Climb through a horizontal break at the start with a long reach and lock off at the second bolt. Above the second bolt, you can escape right to a dirty crack or stay on the steeper face with a series of pockets and more devious sequences before the difficulty eases around the fourth bolt. Climb through an easier section before the route steepens towards the top. At the second to last bolt, use a long draw or sling and then climb up and right onto the face proper, clipping the last bolt in a section of featured, sharp limestone below the anchor.

I hesitate to post this route so soon as it still deserves some good cleaning, brushing, etc. With some traffic, this route should clean up into a nice mid-5.10 or easier. I post it to answer any question about what it might be and to encourage anyone who wants to help do the climbing community a favor and put some traffic in on it and help clean it up. We'll be out there some more to get it cleaned up.


Location 

Located to the right of the Ruckman Cave proper, this route climbs a gray streak 150+ feet to the left of Supre Guide. It is best approached by parking at the Ruckman Cave and hiking up the road past the spot where the creek goes under the road. A faint climbers' trail (not the Koper Trail) goes up the hilll along the wall and leads to Supre Guide. Alternatively, you can also easily park at the campground and hike down canyon to this area. Look for the glue-in bolts.


Protection 

9 glue-in bolts and the anchor.



Comments on When the Levee Breaks Add Comment
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By D Sharp
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not a horrible route per se, but it's dirty as heck (I looked like someone dumped a bag of cement on me when I got down), and the line is not particularly natural.

We all "escaped" to the right in the dingy corner... seems counter-intuitive to stay on the headwall at that point.

In either case, it does serve well as a warm-up if the other 10s are taken next to the cave. Don't forget to clean your shoes off before you attempt anything harder in the cave....