West Crack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Frank Sacherer, 7/63. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 13, 2006 |
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Brad Davidson on pitch one.
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Description About 100 feet left of "Crescent Arch" is a this beautiful crack that extends almost unbroken for 400 feet. The crux is about 20 feet off the ground, protected by a bolt. The route is obvious.
Protection Stoppers and small to medium cams.
BETA PHOTO: "West Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
| Tamara nearing the end of p1's steep diagonal fing...
| Chuck on p3's steep sustained fingers crack! Awes...
| Pitch 3
| Jonny having a blast on P-3. What an awesome clim...
| BETA PHOTO: West Crack, DAFF
| Nice hand crack!
| Pitch one. The fun-ness! June 2009
| A party on pitch 3 or 4, late in the day.
| Lisa Pritchett on West Crack
| Claire Rasmussen moving past pitch one crux at bol...
| BETA PHOTO: start of first pitch
| Pitch 4
| The descent 'directly across from fairview'
| Keith Nannery passing the bolt on pitch 1
| Nice crack on pitch 2
| Knobs on pitch 1
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By Blitzo Sep 13, 2006
| One of the most popular climbs in Tuolumne, for sure! Last time I did it, we were the only party on it. A rare occation. |
By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder Jul 23, 2007
| That's absurd. I wouldn't bring anything bigger than a #3 for this route. |
By Carquinez Dec 5, 2007
| One of the few classic cracks in Tuolumne, bad thing is the approach and then to find 4 groups waiting. Sun hits it late in the day so a later start is ok. Careful on the walk off. |
By EMT May 14, 2008
| So... Big cams? I've seen guys with 2 #5's on this route! I've never brought anything over a #3 camalot. But, if you're not up for a little runout 5.6? (Very secure climbing) a big cam would give you some pro. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 6, 2009
| The start of the second pitch is the burliest 5.8 move I've ever done! :-O |
By Steve R. From: Oakland, CA Jul 16, 2009
| Classic! cruiser 5.7 crack on P1 that just sucks up nuts. Solid roof moves that make you work. Used my #11 hex per SuperTopo suggestion.. Glad I brought my #4-used it to protect P2 during the offwidth/face stuff. Great views from the top! |
By Sarah Kate From: Boulder, CO Jul 28, 2009
| On the gear question: My partner dropped our #4.5 camalot while he was in the offwidth/chimney section of P2. He placed one #4 once and we both severely regret the size/weight of the rack that we brought. I recommend: LOTS of nuts because, oh my gosh, the stunning granite takes it like nothing on earth. Fabulous passive pro. Bring doubles of camalots .5-2, a 3 and maybe a #4 if you like to be super-comfortable, but I wouldn't bother with big gear if I climbed it again. |
By daniel c From: San Francisco, CA Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Agree with others - std rack to #3. If you're in a hurry, stretch P2 into the finger crack section (go ~30 feet above two bolt anchor to left and set hanging belay) and finish in two more pitches (four total, 60m rope). While waiting, have fun watching climbers take on the roof at the start of P2. The desperate worm/squeeze chimney maneuver through the slot of the roof is precious |
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| I dust off my #11 hex for this route. Ability will dictate whether it is worth bringing the #4 BD- note that the climbing is on the face next to the large crack- not in it unless you like shredded skin and clothes. Finger crack on p3 is incredible. |
By C-Tuttle Sep 29, 2010
| A great route! One of the first routes I climbed in the Meadows and have been back to it several times with friends who want to get a feel for the areas moderate climbing. |
By Dave Alden From: San Diego, CA Feb 28, 2011 rating: 5.8+ PG13
| First 2 pitches make the route a must do in Tuolumne. |
By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Nov 11, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Found the first pitch to be easy for the grade (5.9) and the second pitch hard for the grade (5.8). Love this climb. |
By Weston L From: Summerlin, NV Jun 4, 2012 rating: 5.9-
| Very fun climb. Heard all of the hype about the roof being 'burly' and whatnot...if you have decent footwork, it is very easy and straight forward. 5.7 move, with an adorable squirm to reach relative security. The 5.7 finger crack is incredible and the position of the face climbing next to the wide crack is absolutely spectacular. Hang out for a second there and take in your location because it is simply incredible. |
By Yosemitesam Jun 5, 2012
| I dont recall having to use any squirm move on the roof. In fact, despite its intimidating appearance it goes quite easily. I was surprised b/c of all the hype. Everything about this route is fun, including the short free hanging rappel. F@#king rad! |
By randy88fj62 Jun 18, 2012
| Completed West Crack on 6-16-12. I recommend climbing this route in the morning or the late afternoon. The midday sun hits hard on this wall and will make you sweat. The first two pitches are the hardest and the rest is cruising from there. First pitch takes gear up to a BD #2. Doubles in the lower to midsize range are nice but the first pitch eats up nuts too (I placed three.) Second pitch pulls over the crux roof protected by an angle piton and gains the wide crack. Stay out of the crack and climb the knobs to the belay. Those pushing their grade and not comfortable with 5.9 can walk a BD #5 and #6 up the entire second pitch until they have to traverse the 8 feet to the left to gain the bolted belay. Third pitch is cruiser 5.6 knobby finger crack. A 70m rope allows you to set your natural anchor higher which in turn allows the next pitch to top out. Shorter ropes (i.e. 60m or less) will have to complete this section in three pitches. Follow carins to the back of the dome where you can descend via two bolted rap anchors. Single 50m rope gets you to the ground. If you leave packs at the base of the climb, hang them from a tree as marmots frequent the area. |
By Nick_Cov From: Truckee, CA Jun 19, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Fun roof. Don't need big cams on the 5.6 section. If you want pro you can stick cams in deep. First 5.9 move isn't too bad. Can rap to ground from top bolts with 2 ropes easily. P3 finger crack is fun and secure. 5.9 move has good feet and is well protected. |
By Phil Esra Jul 23, 2012
| Ridiculously crowded, and attracts slow parties. Plan accordingly. Blown Away includes the first 1.5 pitches of this climb--pretty much all the good stuff. Blown away adds a fun traverse and a great steep arete/corner. It's a much better climb. Same start, same crowds, unfortunately. |
By Colin Schour From: Big Bear Lake, CA Sep 28, 2012
| So. Good. Can be chilly/windy in the morning... |
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