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Routes in West Face
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40 Knobs to Freedom T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Bart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Over Tokyo (Full) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowabunga T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crotch Rocket Joy Ride T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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New Era S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pirates Code, The T 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunny Side Down T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wienie Roast T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.8795, -119.41345 |
| FA: | Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed 7/1963. |
| Page Views: | 53,404 total · 228/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Sep 13, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
About 100 feet left of "Crescent Arch" is a this beautiful crack that extends almost unbroken for 400 feet. The crux is about 15 feet off the ground, protected by a bolt. The route is obvious.
Approach: From the approach trail, locate the crack that diagonals climber's right above a large ledge which begins 30-40' up a slab that starts at the base of the wall. Look for a ledge (~5' wide) with two trees on it spaced far apart. Access this ledge from climber's right where you can easily scramble up and walk across the ledge to a small alcove, above which sits the bolt and start of the climb.
P1 (5.9): Follow the right diagonal crack all the way up to a bolted anchor located below a small roof/bulge.
P2 (5.8): Pull the roof (protected by an old piton + hand size cams), climb through a short fist size crack and continue up a long off-width crack (#3, #4 size) with plenty of options to face climb. This off width crack eventually pinches down to a beautiful, well protected finger crack. If you have gear left, climb through the finger crack and set up a belay above it on lower angle terrain. Otherwise set up a semi-hanging belay at the base of the finger crack wherever you can find a decent stance.
P3 (5.7): Ascend the finger crack until you reach lower angle terrain with great hands and easier climbing. Take the path of least resistance until you see a left angling large ramp. Build a belay on a large comfortable ledge at the base of this ramp.
P4 (5.4): Follow the ramp up until you reach a low angle crack with a small tree in it. Follow this to the summit.
Descent: go descender's right past the ledge with trees, down slab. A small cairn towards the back of the dome marks the direction where you'll find a 2-bolt rap anchor. (walk towards N Conness). A single 60 meter rope gets you to the ground, 50 with some easy down-scramble. If you leave packs at the base of the climb, hang them from a tree as marmots frequent the area.
Photos
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