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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam 
Blown Away 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) 
Cooke Book 
Crescent Arch 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) 
West Crack 
West of the Witch 
Witch of the West 
Unsorted Routes:

West Crack 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: Frank Sacherer, 7/63.
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (177)
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Brad Davidson on pitch one.

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Description 

About 100 feet left of "Crescent Arch" is a this beautiful crack that extends almost unbroken for 400 feet. The crux is about 20 feet off the ground, protected by a bolt. The route is obvious.


Protection 

Stoppers and small to medium cams.



Photos of West Crack Slideshow Add Photo
"West Crack". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: "West Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.


Tamara nearing the end of p1's steep diagonal finger crack!  At this point one can escape straight up on 5.8 face moves.

Tamara nearing the end of p1's steep diagonal fing...

Chuck on p3's steep sustained fingers crack!  Awesome pitch!

Chuck on p3's steep sustained fingers crack! Awes...

Pitch 3

Pitch 3

Jonny having a blast on P-3. <br /> <br />What an awesome climb!

Jonny having a blast on P-3.

What an awesome clim...


West Crack, DAFF

BETA PHOTO: West Crack, DAFF

Nice hand crack!

Nice hand crack!

Pitch one.   <br />The fun-ness! <br /> <br />June 2009

Pitch one.
The fun-ness!

June 2009


A party on pitch 3 or 4, late in the day.

A party on pitch 3 or 4, late in the day.

Lisa Pritchett on West Crack

Lisa Pritchett on West Crack

Claire Rasmussen moving past pitch one crux at bolt...

Claire Rasmussen moving past pitch one crux at bol...

start of first pitch

BETA PHOTO: start of first pitch

Pitch 4

Pitch 4

The descent 'directly across from fairview'

The descent 'directly across from fairview'

Keith Nannery passing the bolt on pitch 1

Keith Nannery passing the bolt on pitch 1

Nice crack on pitch 2

Nice crack on pitch 2

Knobs on pitch 1

Knobs on pitch 1


Comments on West Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2012
By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

One of the most popular climbs in Tuolumne, for sure!
Last time I did it, we were the only party on it. A rare occation.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jul 23, 2007

That's absurd. I wouldn't bring anything bigger than a #3 for this route.

By Carquinez
Dec 5, 2007

One of the few classic cracks in Tuolumne, bad thing is the approach and then to find 4 groups waiting. Sun hits it late in the day so a later start is ok. Careful on the walk off.

By EMT
May 14, 2008

So... Big cams?

I've seen guys with 2 #5's on this route! I've never brought anything over a #3 camalot. But, if you're not up for a little runout 5.6? (Very secure climbing) a big cam would give you some pro.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2009

The start of the second pitch is the burliest 5.8 move I've ever done! :-O

By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 16, 2009

Classic! cruiser 5.7 crack on P1 that just sucks up nuts. Solid roof moves that make you work. Used my #11 hex per SuperTopo suggestion.. Glad I brought my #4-used it to protect P2 during the offwidth/face stuff. Great views from the top!

By Sarah Kate
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2009

On the gear question: My partner dropped our #4.5 camalot while he was in the offwidth/chimney section of P2. He placed one #4 once and we both severely regret the size/weight of the rack that we brought.

I recommend: LOTS of nuts because, oh my gosh, the stunning granite takes it like nothing on earth. Fabulous passive pro. Bring doubles of camalots .5-2, a 3 and maybe a #4 if you like to be super-comfortable, but I wouldn't bother with big gear if I climbed it again.

By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.9

Agree with others - std rack to #3. If you're in a hurry, stretch P2 into the finger crack section (go ~30 feet above two bolt anchor to left and set hanging belay) and finish in two more pitches (four total, 60m rope). While waiting, have fun watching climbers take on the roof at the start of P2. The desperate worm/squeeze chimney maneuver through the slot of the roof is precious

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+

I dust off my #11 hex for this route. Ability will dictate whether it is worth bringing the #4 BD- note that the climbing is on the face next to the large crack- not in it unless you like shredded skin and clothes. Finger crack on p3 is incredible.

By C-Tuttle
Sep 29, 2010

A great route! One of the first routes I climbed in the Meadows and have been back to it several times with friends who want to get a feel for the areas moderate climbing.

By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.8+ PG13

First 2 pitches make the route a must do in Tuolumne.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.9

Found the first pitch to be easy for the grade (5.9) and the second pitch hard for the grade (5.8). Love this climb.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.9-

Very fun climb. Heard all of the hype about the roof being 'burly' and whatnot...if you have decent footwork, it is very easy and straight forward. 5.7 move, with an adorable squirm to reach relative security. The 5.7 finger crack is incredible and the position of the face climbing next to the wide crack is absolutely spectacular. Hang out for a second there and take in your location because it is simply incredible.

By Yosemitesam
Jun 5, 2012

I dont recall having to use any squirm move on the roof. In fact, despite its intimidating appearance it goes quite easily. I was surprised b/c of all the hype. Everything about this route is fun, including the short free hanging rappel. F@#king rad!

By randy88fj62
Jun 18, 2012

Completed West Crack on 6-16-12. I recommend climbing this route in the morning or the late afternoon. The midday sun hits hard on this wall and will make you sweat. The first two pitches are the hardest and the rest is cruising from there.
First pitch takes gear up to a BD #2. Doubles in the lower to midsize range are nice but the first pitch eats up nuts too (I placed three.)
Second pitch pulls over the crux roof protected by an angle piton and gains the wide crack. Stay out of the crack and climb the knobs to the belay. Those pushing their grade and not comfortable with 5.9 can walk a BD #5 and #6 up the entire second pitch until they have to traverse the 8 feet to the left to gain the bolted belay.
Third pitch is cruiser 5.6 knobby finger crack. A 70m rope allows you to set your natural anchor higher which in turn allows the next pitch to top out. Shorter ropes (i.e. 60m or less) will have to complete this section in three pitches.
Follow carins to the back of the dome where you can descend via two bolted rap anchors. Single 50m rope gets you to the ground. If you leave packs at the base of the climb, hang them from a tree as marmots frequent the area.

By Nick_Cov
From: Truckee, CA
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.8

Fun roof. Don't need big cams on the 5.6 section. If you want pro you can stick cams in deep. First 5.9 move isn't too bad. Can rap to ground from top bolts with 2 ropes easily. P3 finger crack is fun and secure. 5.9 move has good feet and is well protected.

By Phil Esra
Jul 23, 2012

Ridiculously crowded, and attracts slow parties. Plan accordingly.

Blown Away includes the first 1.5 pitches of this climb--pretty much all the good stuff. Blown away adds a fun traverse and a great steep arete/corner. It's a much better climb. Same start, same crowds, unfortunately.

By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Sep 28, 2012

So. Good. Can be chilly/windy in the morning...