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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 
Chute Up T 
Echo Buttress TR 
Fun Stuff T 
Fun with a Gun T 
Hang Ten T 
Helix T 
Hot Knife T 
Palm-U-Granite T 
Pepasan T 
Pigs on the Wing T 
Pinky Lee T 
Porky Pig TR 
R. A. F. T 
Raging Intensity T 
Santa's Little Helpers T 
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 
Swing Low S 
Tofu the Dwarf T 
W. A. C. T 

W. A. C. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Higgins, et. al. 1967
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 200...

Description 

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Protection 

You can optionally get a trad placement in some horizontals below the first bolt. I recommend doing so, because there's some 5.7ish friction between the horizontal and the first bolt. Two bolts to a chain anchor.


Photos of W. A. C. Slideshow Add Photo
W.A.C. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
W.A.C.
Photo by Blitzo.
"W.A.C.". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "W.A.C.".
Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on W. A. C. Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 7, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route orignally had just one bolt (the top one). It's strange that outraged locals haven't chopped the offending bolt by now.
By Brian Reynolds
Dec 2, 2002

Fun climb, fairly easy for the grade. A couple of moves of 5.8 past each of the two bolts, otherwise I would say this route is 5.6, 5.7 at most. I'll second the comment about the rappel -- a 50m rope will not get you all the way to the ground.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 9, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nothing spectacular here. But fun Slab/friction...
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Feb 10, 2010

The first bolt is in a strange location, a few feet to the left of the path of least resistance. I opted to just skip it, rather than make the smeary moves over to the clip. It makes sense now that I know it was a retrojob.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

A fun climb; my favorite in Echo Cove for the grade. Teriffic rock and great frictional qualities make this route memorable.
By Canon
Jan 15, 2012

I prefer "One Shoe Tapping" to this climb, which I felt to be a little harder. Easy enough to do both from the same anchor.