W. A. C. 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Tom Higgins, et. al. 1967 |
| Submitted By: | Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 200...
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Description Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.
Protection You can optionally get a trad placement in some horizontals below the first bolt. I recommend doing so, because there's some 5.7ish friction between the horizontal and the first bolt. Two bolts to a chain anchor.
W.A.C.
Photo by Blitzo.
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BETA PHOTO: "W.A.C.".
Photo by Blitzo.
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 7, 2002
rating: 5.8
| This route orignally had just one bolt (the top one). It's strange that outraged locals haven't chopped the offending bolt by now. |
By Brian Reynolds
Dec 2, 2002
| Fun climb, fairly easy for the grade. A couple of moves of 5.8 past each of the two bolts, otherwise I would say this route is 5.6, 5.7 at most. I'll second the comment about the rappel -- a 50m rope will not get you all the way to the ground. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 9, 2005
rating: 5.8
| Nothing spectacular here. But fun Slab/friction... |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Feb 10, 2010
| The first bolt is in a strange location, a few feet to the left of the path of least resistance. I opted to just skip it, rather than make the smeary moves over to the clip. It makes sense now that I know it was a retrojob. |
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8-
| A fun climb; my favorite in Echo Cove for the grade. Teriffic rock and great frictional qualities make this route memorable. |
By Canon
Jan 15, 2012
| I prefer "One Shoe Tapping" to this climb, which I felt to be a little harder. Easy enough to do both from the same anchor. |
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