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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Houser and Alan Winter, January 1976
Page Views: 2,414 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the second rock to the right. You can access the top of the rock via a fourth-class gully left of the face.

R. A. F. is the rightmost of two routes that diverge near the first bolt; Penelope Street (aka Battle of Britain), 5.10a/b, is the left of the two.

Nice friction, with the cruxy moves only slightly above bolts.


Three bolts.


Alan Winter was of British orgin and Dave Houser named the route R.A.F. not for a Royal Air Force as might be supposed, but for Royal [or Real] Ass F*cker -- for the reason Alan's comment below explains. Dec 18, 2003
The real reason it was called RAF, was that there was a rather large Yucca with very pointy branches right at the start of the route. In fact, at the start we had to traverse in from the right to get above it. So Dave and I decided on the pun right when we finished the route. I don't know if the Yucca is still there. But the reason for the route name should now be obvious and an inside joke for years. It has been a long time since I climbed. I miss the old crowd of Mike Waugh, Dave, and the others. Randy has an excellent memory to remember that I am English. Feb 7, 2004
Kevin Currigan
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
I didn't see that yucca but if I had led this I would have been looking for it (so I wouldn't land on it). This is a real spicy friction climb. There are 0 big holds and its all balance. There are no anchors at the top so you'll need some gear for the belay. Feb 13, 2004
Anyone know what the variation to the left near the top goes at? I believe that the Vogel guide has it at 10a but it felt more like 10c to me. Mar 16, 2004
Steve Powell
Steve Powell  
I climbed this on 12/09/04. Haven't been climbing a whole lot, but thought the crux to be a little harder than just 5.9. A very nice route. Definitely will be back. Dec 10, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I tend to agree with 510b4me on the rating. But 5.9/5.9+ whatever depending/ It is a fun as hell, friction plus zero hold Jtree special. There are anchors on top that can be used now to bring up your second. Hopefull they will not be chopped by some SOB thinking he/she is God of the rock. Dec 10, 2004
Adam Stackhouse    
Led this route many many years ago, sans the belay bolts at the top. Fun face route, good for the rating of 5.9 Feb 21, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.9 PG13
Bo Johnston  
  5.9 PG13
Fun route and a little spicy after the second bolt. What is the nice looking bolted route about 5 feet to the right of it. Feb 22, 2006
Adam Stackhouse    
BPJ, the bolted route to the right of this is Swing Low, 5.7....see description. Apr 15, 2006
Rodger Raubach
  5.9 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9 PG13
A decent climb on good rock. Worthwhile doing on a rest day. Only "two star" to me... Trickier than it looks. Sep 8, 2010
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
"Worthwhile on a rest day": hilarious. Lead this when you're well rested and have a handful of recent 5.9 slabs under your belt. Sustained and runout on top. Oct 8, 2012
Eric DeHaven
Eric DeHaven  
For sure a fun and worthwhile route to add to a tick list. Not sure about it being spicy or having no holds at all, as that as far as Jtree friction is concerned it has perfect tiny edges and little bulges everwhere you need them and the bolts are right around each crux making it a great route to test your friction limits without paying a big price.
If I am in the area its a route I never miss and always smile after. Try Swing low right next to it or WAC on the next buldge left to make it a 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 circuit of jtree slab May 6, 2013
Palmdale, CA
Wael   Palmdale, CA
The Route Is great and has superb friction! Not many holds but who needs any when you have such great rock! Jun 13, 2013

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