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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,492 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Trough to the left of The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W.A.C. Easier than Helix (and easier to protect, if you want), this is probably the best bet for climbers who want to hang a toprope on those two 5.8s.

Some scrambling up large flakes and ledges get you into the wide chute for which (I assume) the climb is named. Solid toe jams and stemming will get you up to just below the chain anchors, and a short step across gets you to the top.

Even at 5.2, this is a pretty fun way to spend 5 or 10 minutes.

Protection

Thin to medium pieces will protect the crack at the back of the trough on the upper half of the climb. Two bolt anchor with rap chains.

Photos

Ben Crowell
  5.2
Ben Crowell  
  5.2
We climbed this intending to rap off of the chains on W.A.C., which from photos appears to be an easy walk from the top of this climb. When we got there, we saw that the photos give the wrong impression, and it was not going to be trivial to get up to those chains; we didn't see any way to protect it, and weren't comfortable doing it without protection. There does not appear to be any possible walk-off to climber's left, nor is there any way to reach the walk-off on climber's right without climbing up to the chains for W.A.C. With hindsight, maybe what we needed to do was find the chains for Fun Stuff, but we left gear and rapped off. A 60 m rope got us to a reasonably secure ledge about 6' off the ground, but we had to carefully even out the ends of the rope. This climb is in sun all day, so not something you want to do on a warm afternoon. May 25, 2014
Climbed this to set a toprope on W.A.C. Would be a great first lead for a beginner. Otherwise forgettable. As an edit:I upped my star rating to two stars, since it would be a nice and safe lead for a new leader. Sep 8, 2010