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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Matt Cox, 1976
Page Views: 2,044 total, 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Seen from afar as a striking thin crack, closer inspection reveals this to be a mere seam at the start with somewhat marginal protection. Once past the bouldery start the angle relents and the seam widens into a nice finger crack that eats gear and, unfortunately, is over far too quickly.

Seldom led due to the committing nature of the crux moves - a fall will likely plant you on the sloping ledge at the base, but easily toproped from the anchors of nearby Swing Low.

Location

Located just to the right of Swing Low and two routes to the right of R. A. F.

Protection

thin to 2", bolted anchor/rap (shared with Swing Low)
Watched Bachar free solo Big Moe while belaying my wife on this climb. She was on top rope trying to work her way to higher grades, and was successful here. She thought it was all of 10d. I didn't even try the climb as my fingertips were already abraded bloody by JTree rock. Sep 8, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10d
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10d
Came back a couple years later with a whole lot more crack experience. I'm going back to .10d. Really just a move or two. Felt good to feel such a difference. Jan 18, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Gee- I'm sure glad this route got upgraded. In 82 when I did it it was 10C. Pro seemed OK. Dec 15, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Indeed, this route is over far too quickly. Not a trivial lead, but not particularly bad as well. I found the crux quite protectable, actually. I was able to equalize a nut and a finger-sized cam in the second pod, providing decent protection through the initial tough moves.

Oh, and for the record, this route is 5.11a. Oct 18, 2008
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10d
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10d
Glad someone said it. Felt a lot harder than 10d to me.

Worth TR-ing if you're coming off of R.A.F. or Swing low. Oct 15, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Realistically 5.11a... Mar 4, 2006