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W. A. C.

5.8, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 1.9 from 77 votes
FA: Tom Higgins, et. al. 1967
California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Cove > Echo Cove - North Side

Description

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Protection

You can optionally get a trad placement in some horizontals below the first bolt. I recommend doing so, because there's some 5.7ish friction between the horizontal and the first bolt. Two bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
[Hide Photo] Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
"W.A.C.".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "W.A.C.". Photo by Blitzo.
Matt at the first bolt
[Hide Photo] Matt at the first bolt
W.A.C.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] W.A.C. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route orignally had just one bolt (the top one). It's strange that outraged locals haven't chopped the offending bolt by now. Nov 7, 2002
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, fairly easy for the grade. A couple of moves of 5.8 past each of the two bolts, otherwise I would say this route is 5.6, 5.7 at most. I'll second the comment about the rappel -- a 50m rope will not get you all the way to the ground. Dec 2, 2002
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Nothing spectacular here. But fun Slab/friction... Dec 9, 2005
Bryan G
Yosemite
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is in a strange location, a few feet to the left of the path of least resistance. I opted to just skip it, rather than make the smeary moves over to the clip. It makes sense now that I know it was a retrojob. Feb 10, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] A fun climb; my favorite in Echo Cove for the grade. Teriffic rock and great frictional qualities make this route memorable. Sep 8, 2010
Canon
 
[Hide Comment] I prefer "One Shoe Tapping" to this climb, which I felt to be a little harder. Easy enough to do both from the same anchor. Jan 15, 2012