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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, October 1991
Page Views: 1,571 total · 10/month
Shared By: mmurduff Mic on Oct 21, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route climbs a crack line just right of Fun Stuff and ends at the same chain anchors. Half way up a horizontal crack is encountered. Above this is what I want to warn people about. 5-15 feet above the horizontal crack the rock becomes near vertical and very loose. I felt the rocks shift as I pulled down on them. The route accepted gear well until the end when the crack flares out and veres to the right. Stay calm and keep moving, fist jams and hidden holds provide access to the summit.


Small nuts and 0.5 - 1.5 cams (#2 at the top before exiting the crack). A few small tri-cams are useful. Shares the chain anchors on top of Fun Stuff.


Fun route with nice moves at the start of the crack. The top part is loose in some parts so be careful placing gear but it is an easy 5.8 nonetheless. Mar 4, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Perhaps this route has cleaned up. On the upper-half of the route, there was one loose chockstone in the crack (easily avoided), but otherwise there are big edges and solid jugs to pull through on. Yeah, be careful where you place gear, but solid placements were not too tough to find.

The opening sequence is the clear crux of the route (5.8+). The top half is steep and exposed but straightforward (5.7), yielding quite a nice route. Dec 20, 2007

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