Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Tom Atherton, October 1991
Page Views: 1,620 total · 10/month
Shared By: mmurduff Mic on Oct 21, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs a crack line just right of Fun Stuff and ends at the same chain anchors. Half way up a horizontal crack is encountered. Above this is what I want to warn people about. 5-15 feet above the horizontal crack the rock becomes near vertical and very loose. I felt the rocks shift as I pulled down on them. The route accepted gear well until the end when the crack flares out and veres to the right. Stay calm and keep moving, fist jams and hidden holds provide access to the summit.

Protection

Small nuts and 0.5 - 1.5 cams (#2 at the top before exiting the crack). A few small tri-cams are useful. Shares the chain anchors on top of Fun Stuff.

Photos

nicole
 
nicole  
 
Fun route with nice moves at the start of the crack. The top part is loose in some parts so be careful placing gear but it is an easy 5.8 nonetheless. Mar 4, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8+
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8+
Perhaps this route has cleaned up. On the upper-half of the route, there was one loose chockstone in the crack (easily avoided), but otherwise there are big edges and solid jugs to pull through on. Yeah, be careful where you place gear, but solid placements were not too tough to find.

The opening sequence is the clear crux of the route (5.8+). The top half is steep and exposed but straightforward (5.7), yielding quite a nice route. Dec 20, 2007