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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Higgins, et. al. 1967
Page Views: 1,868 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Protection

You can optionally get a trad placement in some horizontals below the first bolt. I recommend doing so, because there's some 5.7ish friction between the horizontal and the first bolt. Two bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
This route orignally had just one bolt (the top one). It's strange that outraged locals haven't chopped the offending bolt by now. Nov 7, 2002
Fun climb, fairly easy for the grade. A couple of moves of 5.8 past each of the two bolts, otherwise I would say this route is 5.6, 5.7 at most. I'll second the comment about the rappel -- a 50m rope will not get you all the way to the ground. Dec 2, 2002
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Nothing spectacular here. But fun Slab/friction... Dec 9, 2005
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The first bolt is in a strange location, a few feet to the left of the path of least resistance. I opted to just skip it, rather than make the smeary moves over to the clip. It makes sense now that I know it was a retrojob. Feb 10, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
A fun climb; my favorite in Echo Cove for the grade. Teriffic rock and great frictional qualities make this route memorable. Sep 8, 2010
Canon
 
Canon  
 
I prefer "One Shoe Tapping" to this climb, which I felt to be a little harder. Easy enough to do both from the same anchor. Jan 15, 2012

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