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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Higgins, et. al. 1967
Page Views: 1,730 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Protection

You can optionally get a trad placement in some horizontals below the first bolt. I recommend doing so, because there's some 5.7ish friction between the horizontal and the first bolt. Two bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

Canon
 
Canon  
 
I prefer "One Shoe Tapping" to this climb, which I felt to be a little harder. Easy enough to do both from the same anchor. Jan 15, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
A fun climb; my favorite in Echo Cove for the grade. Teriffic rock and great frictional qualities make this route memorable. Sep 8, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The first bolt is in a strange location, a few feet to the left of the path of least resistance. I opted to just skip it, rather than make the smeary moves over to the clip. It makes sense now that I know it was a retrojob. Feb 10, 2010
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Nothing spectacular here. But fun Slab/friction... Dec 9, 2005
Fun climb, fairly easy for the grade. A couple of moves of 5.8 past each of the two bolts, otherwise I would say this route is 5.6, 5.7 at most. I'll second the comment about the rappel -- a 50m rope will not get you all the way to the ground. Dec 2, 2002
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
This route orignally had just one bolt (the top one). It's strange that outraged locals haven't chopped the offending bolt by now. Nov 7, 2002