Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Larry Kuechlin, Jr. and Cory Zinngrabe, November 1988
Page Views: 3,345 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Fun 5.8 friction on gorgeous rock. Some topos list the rappel from here as 85 feet, but a 50m rope does NOT get you to the ground. It gets you to a ledge, from which the ten-foot downclimb is not difficult.

Protection

Three bolts to a chain anchor. Optional placement in some horizontals below the first bolt, but the climbing isn't too tough or scary if you skip this.
I would disagree about the pro. I thought the crux came down low -- 40 feet off the ground but before you reach the first bolt. I found the upper (bolted) face to be 5.6, 5.7 tops. Dec 2, 2002
I agree with Brian. The crux is below the first bolt. Do yourself a favor and place some pro in the horizontal. Apr 27, 2003
This route was a total push over. I can't see how it was 5.8. Maybe if you worked the moves for a while you could make it 5.8 but I think this route was 5.7. Jan 23, 2005
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.6
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.6
Agreed. Nowhere close to Jtree 5.8 friction. Jan 18, 2010
Doug99
  5.7
Doug99  
  5.7
Pretty easy and not very memorable, but nice face climbing practice. Dec 9, 2010
Stormeh
 
Stormeh  
 
The slab section is fairly easy, I agree not consistent with Josh 5.8, but the runout makes you think for sure. Mar 31, 2011
Canon
 
Canon  
 
The moves between the horizontal (#1 Camalot IIRC) and the first bolt certainly kept my head in the game. It's fairly straightforward from there. 5.7 Jan 15, 2012
Armor Todd
  5.8 PG13
Armor Todd  
  5.8 PG13
A great 5.8 warmup...excellent intro to Josh face technique...beautiful rock, nice length, easy to lead/lower. set up toprope, very nice in the late afternoon sun...and close to the road...one of my favorites...do set a piece in the horizontal Apr 3, 2012
Vitaliy
  5.7 R
Vitaliy  
  5.7 R
Strange bolt placements - no bolts at the cruxes - plenty of bolts where you don't need them. 60m is just enough to setup TR on this and W.A.C. Excellent friction - better than Swing Low. Feb 18, 2013