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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 236 total · 18/month
Shared By: Sean on May 4, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

On the leftmost edge of the west-facing wall, at the bottom of the gully that leads up to Ben Dover Face, there's a downward pointing V block about 20 ft left of Fun With A Gun. White Fang ascends the crack that goes up the right side of that tooth-like V block, over a bulge, past easy ledges, and tops out over a small roof. Gear anchor placements about 15 ft back and TR setup would require long extension.

Descent [Edit]

Rap via Ben Dover's bolted rap anchor, located to climber's left and on that farside's downslope.

Protection [Edit]

Pro to 3", gear anchor.

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
I climbed this route as a warm up with two other people. It has a pretty burly start (protects well with a #4), and is a bit of a grunt fest until you surmount the "fang." The consensus within our party was that this felt solid 5.8.

Overall, this is an okay route that is definitely deserving of a star, though I don't think I would recommend it to anyone as a warm up. Also, there is a loose hold to the climber's right just below the roof crack roughly the size of a small toaster that will likely break off if it is fully weighted. It flexed and crackled when I pulled on it. Jun 5, 2017

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