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Routes in Echo Cove - North Side

Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chute Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Echo Buttress TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Stuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun with a Gun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang Ten T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helix T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hot Knife T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Palm-U-Granite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pepasan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs on the Wing T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Pinky Lee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Porky Pig TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R. A. F. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raging Intensity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Santa's Little Helpers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Low S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tofu the Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
W. A. C. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Fang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laeger and Howard Doyle, December 1977
Page Views: 5,950 total · 35/month
Shared By: Kevin Currigan on Feb 1, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first promising looking crack on the south facing north formation. This climb is fun as the name implies with some thoughtful moves but plenty of big holds and nice rests. For spice move left at the top over the slight overhang-good hands and feet.

Protection

Medium cams and nuts. Double bolts and chains at the top.
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
 
Agree that the start is super polished and hard; was probably much easier many years ago when small features had not been rubbed off. The final mantle at the top was exciting, altho I wonder if it would have been easier to go right? Feb 17, 2017
Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
The first move feels like a lot of 5.10 direct starts I've done. Once you've seen it or figured it out it's not bad. Apr 18, 2016
Carl Martin
San Francisco
Carl Martin   San Francisco
This was my first time leading 5.8 and on my first trip leading trad. It felt really great except for the start where I pulled on my quickdraw on the first bolt. One of the flakes around halfway sounded a bit hollow to me so watch out when placing.

climbed around Jan 31st 2015. Mar 2, 2016
Ryan Abman
San Diego
 
Ryan Abman   San Diego
 
Very fun, enjoyable climbing. While the climbing is fairly straight forward, this route by not be suitable for the new leader. There are some run outs (particularly after the 2nd bolt - which a fall could lead to hitting a ledge below - and before pulling the final move). New leaders may find this a little 'heady'. That said, the climbing is certainly easier than your typical J-tree 5.8 (once you make the first move off the ground). Jan 18, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Start is hard 5.8ish, then cruise through fun easy climbing to a not-as-hard-as-the-start top out move. Mar 15, 2015
tom9382
  5.9-
tom9382  
  5.9-
The bottom part is very difficult and super polished. After that it's a pretty solid 5.8 climb. Jan 4, 2014
Canon
  5.8
Canon  
  5.8
Crux low, then a very fun romp on great gear! Nov 17, 2012
Violet
CA
  5.8+
Violet   CA
  5.8+
Led this, and agree that the move to get above the first bolt is harder than a typical Jtree 5.8: slabtacular and micro-crimps with nothing at all for feet. The last mantle move at the top is heady on lead, but not hard. Feb 27, 2012
NDTitanLady
  5.7
NDTitanLady  
  5.7
Hardest moves on it is right off the ground, and the mantle to get to the anchors. Bring up some slings to extend the anchors unless you want horrible rope drag.

Also wolverine guide book says there is one bolt, there are two bolts on the bottom of the climb. Nov 20, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.8
I agree with Brian about the finishing mantle. Using the jug makes the move more difficult. I found the opening moves to B1 and the finishing mantle deserving of the 5.8 rating, the rest being about 5.6+. Dec 18, 2010
Doug99
  5.9
Doug99  
  5.9
Fun climb. The first move is very tough, and I'd say more of a 5.9+. The bolt it right there though, so fall all you want. The fun stuff is at the top. Dec 9, 2010
A pretty nice and steep, exciting climb. Did this a long time ago; just found my old notes on Joshua Tree. Didn't have any cams then...only nuts. Definitely more fun than grunt! Big chickenheads at top lead to a surprising finish. Nov 12, 2010
A smaller cam (blue master cam) helped for the top Apr 22, 2010
Drew Peterson
  5.8+
Drew Peterson  
  5.8+
this is 5.8 in my book. The slab moves down low are the hard part, and are part of the climb... thus they go into my rating of the route. Jan 17, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.9+
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.9+
I found the start to be harder than the Echo Buttress TR to the right. Maybe its a short person's climb...ha ha.

Topped out by mantling off the finish jug at climber's left. On the rappel off, noticed that wasn't the "easy" way to finish. Sporty! Fun route. Jan 2, 2008
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
This is a really fun route. Like several other J-Tree routes, the first 10 feet don't really count in the rating. The start was hard, but the rest of the climbing was easy and fun at 5.8. Oct 8, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's pretty fun stuff! Good thing the sign is there, I would have been lost. Sep 28, 2006
Chris Swope
Greeley, co
Chris Swope   Greeley, co
Just lead this for the first time this last week and WOW what a cool move off the deck. I would definately say that the first move is pushing the 5.8 envelope but the rest of the route is at best 5.7. Mar 15, 2006
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8
Fun route, always crowded. Feb 21, 2006
mmurduff Mic
  5.9-
mmurduff Mic  
  5.9-
Its been two years since I first lead Fun Stuff and I can't remember the start being too difficult. I went back agin this weekend and was totally surprised by the ultimately crimpy start of this 5.8. The climb begins with small crimpers on flaking & crumbling rock w/o foot holds. Yeah the first bolt is close enough you could clip and pull your way through it, but thats not the game we play. Same type of crimpers past the second bolt, however, the rock is more sound. The rest of the climb is stable and not harder than 5.8; and worthy of two stars!

It's all so subjectiveMike Oct 23, 2005
I agree with your comments on the lack of difficulty. I just seem to have a hard time with the first move. Maybe it's just me. Dec 9, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
It is deffinatly not harder than 5.8. I see on this site it is rated 5.8. Is it the same in Randys and Als guides? I thought it was rated 5.6. It is not hard by any measure of the word. I stick with 5.6. Dec 8, 2004
Like the name implies, this is a very enjoyable climb. If I remember correctly, the beginning is some slab climbing past two bolts before you reach the crack. The move past the first bolt is MUCH harder than 5.8 IMHO. Either that, or I'm starting on the wrong route. Dec 8, 2004