| Texas Canyon |
 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Thanks to Google Maps for excellent service
Description Large dome of sandstone conglomerate and nearby outcroppings, pinnacles, hoodoos and boulders located in desert chaparral near Santa Clarita, CA. Land administered by Angeles National Forest. GUIDEBOOK: Southern California Sport Climbing by Troy Mayr GEAR: Most routes are bolted and only require quickdraws. A second rope is helpful to more quickly get down from the main formation, especially when a party has more than two climbers. If you are going to adventure into new territory some camming pro or tri-cams and some slings for chicken heads could be useful. CAUTION Please wear a helmet when climbing and especially when belaying and rappelling. There are loose bits. HOW TO GET THERE Approximately 30 minutes North of LA: Take 5 freeway to the 14 freeway toward Palmdale. Once through Santa Clarita exit Sand Canyon and turn left. Go 2 miles over the hill to Sierra Highway and turn right. Go approximately 5 miles to Rowher Flat OHRV area sign and turn left. Go 2 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Follow the fire road on foot 1/4 mile to the obvious crag. (see map at right) HISTORY: There are a few fixed pins and old bolts as evidence of climbing earlier than 1990. Some of the better hard routes were put up prior to 1998 by Loomis, et al. Mayr's 2nd edition. Several moderate routes establish by Savage 1998-2000. Mayr's 3rd edition. Various hard & moderate routes put up in the 2000s. A fire in 2007 closed the area for 18 months, reopening in November 2009. Some new route activity started in and through the winter season of 2010 and 2011 the number of routes has doubled. Ben Chapman and friends let a string of new routes he has posted here. There are many others, particularly over on the West side of Temple of Ishtar. No point in putting in hardware if you are not going to share the route name and rating with us. Contributors needed for names and ratings on the many routes not listed on this site. There are still many quality lines that have not been climbed or are incomplete projects. This area is becoming a major LA climbing area due to close proximity, quality of climbing and wide range of grades available. It's about time for this area to get it's own guidebook. (Don't look to me.) I would be happy to relinquish my knowledge to anyone with the energy to actually complete such a project.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas Canyon:
Browse More Classics in Texas Canyon
Featured Route For Texas Canyon
The Green Mile 5.10d CA : Los Angeles County : ... : The Egg
"The Green Mile" climbs the wonderfully pocketed steep face on the far right side of The Egg Cup buttress. It is easily seen to the left as one walks up the trail into the shady Texas Canyon. Climb the face left of the rounded flake on splendid pockets to a high 1st bolt. Continue up and right following the line of pockets to a large inclusion on the left. The pockets end and the face bulges out to yield a committing crux on small fingery edges, then more pockets to a last bolt and a series of a... [more] Browse More Classics in CA
The east side of the main rock at Texas Canyon fea...
| BETA PHOTO: North facing walls of the main formation. XX mark ...
| This is a view of the main rock formation in Texas...
| Looking up the 2nd pitch of Goldline while on rapp...
| BETA PHOTO: West end of the main formation at Texas Canyon. Pl...
| BETA PHOTO: This steep finger crack is located on the north fa...
| BETA PHOTO: This is the east side of the canyon. There are abo...
| BETA PHOTO: This overview shows the main formations of Texas C...
| Here is a picture of the summit of the main format...
| BETA PHOTO: Tethys route. 2 pitches. Quick draws only. Anchor...
| Spider & Son on Goldline As you can see the Hyperi...
| BETA PHOTO: There are 2 bolted routes just to the left of Rt C...
| The climber on the left is at the top of Tethys. C...
| James tossing the rope off on the rap from Skyline...
| Leader clipping the 3rd bolt on "Hyperion."
| Looking into Texas Canyon from the south, on the a...
| Leader working the moves above the 3rd bolt on "Sp...
| Negotiating the crux bulge on "Yellow Rose of Texa...
| Pulling shallow pockets and cobbles at Texas Canyo...
| Pocket pulling at Texas Canyon.
| Spring Flowers at Texas Canyon
| Texas Canyon wildflowers
| Enjoying stellar pockets in The Canyon at Texas Ca...
| The road leading to Texas Canyon from the parking ...
| Spring has brought some beautiful wildflowers to T...
| The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab).
| Not Again! Trash collected (& recycled) from the a...
| The hills are alive with the sound of bees and the...
| Sign marking the turn for Rush Canyon Road to Texa...
| Wildflowers on the approach to Texas Canyon.
| Looking south, into The Canyon and at The Egg at T...
| This was the lst bolt on P2 of "Goldline." The sta...
| Someone has been doing some nice trail work leadin...
| BETA PHOTO: You will get a ticket. However, it is only $5 to p...
| BETA PHOTO: A quick and rough guide to known routes at this da...
| BETA PHOTO: Broader sketch of the overall area.
| A beautiful sunset to end a great day climbing at ...
| The Shrike Temple (aka the Panhandle) situated bet...
| Waiting......
| The Texas Canyon formations from the west.
| Opuntia species thriving on the slopes near Texas ...
| Texas Canyon from the Silver King OHV Trail.
| Chilling on Mars.
| Sunset at Texas Canyon. Photo by Jonathan Burnham
| Texas Canyon after sunset.
| A new layer of crushed gravel on Rush Canyon Road ...
| Excellent photo by Chris Savage detailing two new ...
| Immaculate Mother on Sierra Highway just south of ...
| Immaculate Mother
| Looks like S. Cal climbers are seeking sun drenche...
| Ramp built by bikers for jumps at Texas Canyon.
| A distant view of the formations at Texas Canyon f...
| Hunters returning from shooting quail in the hills...
| Snow at Texas Canyon after a cold February storm.
| The north face of The Jukebox.
| Chumash Cave.
| Young Gopher snake out catching some rays. Looks l...
| The Parking Lot is Full!!!! Looks like Texas Cany...
| The Halfway House Cafe, the local breakfast & lunc...
| A Western Pocket Gopher enjoying the spring and th...
| Texas Canyon, on a stormy day, from the south.
| What are climbers doing with pallets in The Canyon...
| Texas canyon, left of pangea wall... 5.10b ???
| A huge column of smoke from the Powerhouse fire, N...
| | |
By Spider Savage Jan 20, 2010
| There are many routes and projects in this area that have been put up over the years. Please come forward with any route knowledge, area names, route names etc. -Spider |
By Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain From: Las Vegas, Nevada Apr 10, 2010
| The name of the road you turn on to get to Texas canyon is Rowher Flats, NOT Rohr Flats. Cosmic |
By Tristan B From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 19, 2010
| I just went here for my first time on Sat. Such an awesome place! |
By Spider Savage Oct 14, 2010
| Looks like new routes completed this summer on the Temple of Ishtar NW face. Please PM with route names or put them up here yourself. |
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA Jun 17, 2011
| The road that accesses Texas Canyon is Rush Canyon Road, and is so marked. The sign at the turnoff from Sierra Highway indicates that the road to the left (Rush Canyon Road) leads to the Rowher Flat OHV Area. |
By Spider Savage Jun 24, 2011
| Interested in turning over the administration of this area to another more energetic. I just don't get the time to get out there like I should. |
By EnFuego From: Seal Beach, Ca Nov 8, 2011
| I just made some calls to the Bouquet Canyon Ranger District, and they believe this entire area is closed as it's in an environmentally sensitive area. Does anybody have any additional information regarding closure to the climbing area or it being off limits? Is this area strictly enforced? |
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA Nov 12, 2011
| Currently, Texas Canyon is NOT posted as closed. Hunters, motorcyclists, dog walkers, mountain bikers, and climbers are frequenting the area. The area was closed for 18 months in 2008/2009 due to the Buckweed Fire, which burned over 2000 acres on October 21, 2007, and destroyed the Santa Clara/Mojave Ranger District Headquarters, but if Texas Canyon was closed the gate at Sierra Highway would be locked and the area would be posted. |
By Guy Keesee From: Moorpark, CA Nov 25, 2011
| Knot trying to be a jerk, but how come Mt. Project always tells us to use Helmets....... I don't own one, never needed one. But to me its just a personal preference, I dont care if you use one. Whats next? You going to tell us what shoes to bring??? And I hope that Ben Chapman dude dosen't get this place closed because of his weak, "me first" ethic. Ben you don't need to put up crappy short climbs anymore, OK. We are growing tired of all the dead plants, chopped holds, poor bolt placements etc. that you do. Please take up bowling or some other "sport" cause you ain't a climber. |
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA Nov 27, 2011
| Wow, lots and lots of folks out climbing at Texas Canyon today!! Every formation; Hyperion Slab, The Canyon, The Egg, Temple of Ishtar, Tower of Babel, The Diner, and the Pangea Wall, had parties climbing on them. At one point there were 13 cars at the parking area, many with Notices of Non-Compliance adorning their windshields. Awesome weather, with no wind event as predicted, and everyone having a great time. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Nov 28, 2011
| Guy you can borrow my old helmet, however it does have a huge hole in the top from where a falling rock hit it... This is a nice local lead area, and while the rock is not of the highest quality the climbing is fun and engaging, plus the scenery is practically unspoiled. Chris Savage had the good taste to make the moderate Hyperion Slab routes nice and run out, which gives them a distinctly non-Sport climb feel and adds to the spice on the easier second pitches - and as such are probably more for people very steady at long run out 5.7 leads. I have only climbed a few routes here but I would recommend adjusting the quality star rating system because it seems like we're using some other area (a granite area?) as the datum for the quality ratings, for example I would say that Hyperion is at least 3 stars based upon the surrounding climbs, it has good moves between widely spaced bolts plus a cool hanging belay. Anyway MHO. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Dec 2, 2011
| Ryan I have no problem with the hangers being painted, this way they are the same color, or thereabouts, as the rock. I doubt this practice will get Texas Canyon closed, as it's an environmentally sound practice, and demonstrates a certain level of sensitivity. It is not graffiti. |
By Anders H From: Saugus, CA and Pocatello, ID Dec 21, 2011
| Is there any trad climbing or known trad ascents at Texas Canyon? |
By Chisel Less May 8, 2012
| Can't believe my OP was pulled! I will write on here every day! Went to Texas Canyon a few days ago, Have not been there in a long time, I was appalled at what I saw, Glued on rocks, Drilled out pockets, Chiseled out cracks, bolted 3rd class slabs, destroyed vegetation, Bolts that were spray painted after installation rock, Full squeeze jobs next to classic routes, Etc... Do we really need another chiseled and glued Echo type pile.. Ben C has lost his mind. I am going to talk with the land managers of Bouquet Canyon/Rowher Flats, This outrageous UN-respectful destruction of a natural resource must stop. If you pull this post it means MT Project condones Chiseling! And is not a true representative of our Sport.. |
By Chisel Less May 8, 2012
| Please stop pulling my post off! You have no right to..I did not say anything that was not true facts. The truth is hard to take isn't it. Spider Savage I have a right to speak the truth here..I thought you were a nice guy with some ethics, do you really condone chiseling gluing adding glued holds to the rock? Comment please. |
By Spider Savage May 9, 2012
| Yes. Please do not chisel or glue on holds. The rock here is pretty loose. Gluing to the matrix would be a waste. Also the epoxy writing the rating of the climb is not good. Some folks think that since the rock is kind of loose and the area trashed by motorcyclists, shooters and other free-for-all land uses, that anything goes. We need to keep this area clean and natural. Taking a fuss between climbers to the land managers is what will get things shut down. Please maintain high standards and respect for public lands. PS. I do not have edit power on your posts. The owners of the site will sometimes remove slander. Debates are good. Post your words responsibly and they will help. |
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA May 9, 2012
| Since the closure of Williamson Rock many of the crags in and around the Los Angeles Basin have seen an increase in the number of climbers trying to enjoy our sport. My first visit to Texas Canyon was in the mid-1990s and since that time I have noticed many changes, some positive; like many of the newer well protected routes, the upgrading of old unsafe bolts and anchors, an increase in the number climbers enjoying climbing at Texas Canyon, and some negative; noise, litter, fires, erosion, and loss of vegetation. However, what I have not seen or witnessed is chiseling, chipping, gluing, or the wanten destruction of vegetation. Texas Canyon is a fragile and priceless resource that deserves our care and respect. Please be good stewards and don't expect the land managers or others to do it for you/us. As Spider Savage has indicated maintain high ethical standards and show respect for our public lands. ps. Echo Cliffs was NEVER shutdown or closed. Four routes were voluntarily removed from the south side of the Grotto, but none of the routes in Louie Anderson's guidebook were ever affected. As a result a positive and collaborative relationship has developed with the rangers and the NPS, to include Adopt-a-Crag days at Echo Cliffs. |
By David Carrera Feb 12, 2013
| I remember some guy having graffiti removel beta over on Supertopo. Try a search of the forum. I do know that on City graffiti you can mess up the removel process if you do it wrong the first time around. Excuse the nitpic, but it's called the "corridor" not the "canyon", regardless what it says on here. |
By David Carrera Feb 12, 2013
| I don't see where Troy calls it a canyon in his Third addition (2004) or the old orange guide. I would doubt Troy has even been there but could be wrong, it's just a guess. I was surprised he included TC in the new edition and when I asked him about it he said he was going to take it out but some guy had, shall I say, "lobbied" him to keep it in. But either way, what does it seem more like to you, a canyon or a corridor? |
By David Carrera Feb 12, 2013
| It looks like we're going to have a semantic argument here. Yes the area,in general, is a canyon, like the canyons you listed, and yes, you are correct that Troy called the area Texas Canyon. I am totally not seeing where this specific sub area of Texas Canyon is called "the canyon" in his guides. Are you going to make me get out a dictionary? Dude, look the words up. Have you ever heard of a "canyon" that you could touch both walls at the same time? I don't know, seems like a corridor to me, but since you bring Spider Savage into this as some kind of legitimizing voice here, WTF makes him the arbitrator of any of this? He can name his routes whatever he wants but I fully can't stand the names he has put on the formations.But for the sake of argument, let's accept his word on this one:
|
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA Jun 5, 2013
| Indeed, let's take Spider's word on this one. Take note of the caption, "The Canyon," on this Spider Savage aerial photo.
|
By Benjamin Chapman From: CA Jun 11, 2013
| Touché Mitchells. That is a great photo and the analogies are nearly poetic. We need more positive and erudite contributors like yourself around here. Thank you. |
|