Spook Book 5.10+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Kamps & Laeger - July, 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 |
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Stein leads pitch 2 (5.10+) of Spook Book. He too...
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Description AKA "Welcome to the Needles."
Yet another beautiful, perfect route -- I think it's the Witch's analog to the Don Juan Wall: shorter, and perhaps easier, but more heart-pounding and intense. The crux pitch is one of the most exceptional corners I've ever climbed -- super technical, sustained, devious, and full of committing moves above fiddly gear.
P1: Begin at a small left-facing left-leaning loose-ish flake system. Place some uninspiring gear (I believe there's a shitty pin as well), then perform some committing moves up and right onto the face. A few desperate moves to a thank-God clip. A fall before this bolt would be at best violent and at worst catastrophic. Wander right, then back left and up to a second bolt (crux, 5.11a, er, 5.10a). Continue up to a crack and belay at a stance.
P2: Enter the long left-facing corner system. Climb this system at desperate, difficult 5.11, er, 5.10. Belay at another obvious stance.
P3: Climb a short 5.8 pitch up an overhanging flake system. Do NOT link this into the next pitch (when things look really hard, stop).
P4: Climb the increasingly hard 5.10 dihedral. RPs and TCUs galore. A combination of jamming, palm smearing, and arete pinching will get you through the sustained 5.11+, er, 5.10+ crux. It is possible to run this pitch all the way to the top, or you can step right and belay for a short 5.8 summit pitch.
Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.
Protection Double cams from TCUs through #1 Camalot. A single #2 Camalot. Wires & RPs. Quickdraws (no slings needed).
Ian leads pitch 3 (5.10a) of Spook book.
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Preparing for pitch 4 (5.10+) of Spook Book. This...
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Josh Janes and Greg Barnes on the crux pitch of Sp...
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Chris Brown on P1 of Spook Book, as taken from The...
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Diana leading the second pitch.
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Diana leads the 4th pitch...
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Spook Book (5.10+) on the Witch takes the obvious ...
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By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 22, 2006
| Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together with a 60m rope. Have your head on straight for this one and bring plenty of wires and RPs. |
By david goldstein
Jun 25, 2006
| This climb struck me as fairly graded although getting to the bolt on P1 was harrowing. The book proper reminded me a lot of Devils Tower. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 18, 2007
| A great route with a very committing move to the bolt on the first pitch. The second bolt was added by another party. The new bolt protects a tricky move to the right. You are also a long way out and will probably get banged up if you blow the last moves getting to the first belay ledge. This was for our party the spook part of the book. It would be really exciting if 10+ was your limit. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Aug 14, 2007
| 10+ on A3 gear should keep your attention where it belongs. This was pretty close to my limit at the time and it sure had mine. Don't skimp on the brass. |
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
May 23, 2011
| Hi Eric - FYI Bob Kamp's contemporaneous notes from the FA have him placing the first bolt and Herb Laeger the second. On the first day,7-9-78, they ran out of time and traversed to Inner Sanctum to escape from about P3. Came back 7-15-78 and did the whole line. |
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