Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Vaino Kodas, Herb Laeger: May 1986|
|Page Views:||1,906 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||john durr on Jul 28, 2010|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis forgotten Kodas/Laeger classic parallels its better known Kamps/Laeger neighbor Spook Book in quality and commitment to minimal fixed gear. Plenty of route finding challenges.
Just downhill from the left facing dihedral right of Shazam is a thin seam that starts about 40 feet up (see photo).
Climb up an easy corner, pass a small roof where the crack blanks out up to another small roof on the left, then up to a rusty old 1/4" bolt below the seam. A bit dicey before the bolt - 5.10a/b-R. Follow the seam with spaced but good gear ~5.9 where it disappears in a small roof. There is a great small stopper and useless old bolt here before moving up left to a thin left facing dihedral and back right to the roof and good gear. Traverse right until you can pull the roofs above into a left facing dihedral. Follow this thin corner to a great belay ledge around the corner to the left. Gear belay thin - 1" about 160' or belay the just below the roof option if you have rope drag.
The second pitch follows the thin left facing corner above as it curves left and becomes a splitter seam. When the rock goes from rough to smooth, ignore the off route bolt up and right, and traverse 5 feet left to another finger crack. Follow this to another nice ledge. Gear belay thin - 1" about 120' - sustained 5.10 with two great 5.10c/d cruxes.
Several options are possible on the third pitch, one option follows the left facing corner directly above until a seam breaks out right. Work out right (crux) until another right facing corner is reached. Climb up, then slightly left to another left facing corner past a small bush. Follow this to a fat lieback and small belay ledge. Gear belay 1"-2", 5.10c, ~120'
The fourth pitch follows the easy right slanting ramp up and over to the end of Spook Book. 5.8 ~90'.
ProtectionGear: Thin to 3". Small stoppers and small cams (TCU's) and maybe a set of tiny brass. A few long slings help at the end of pitch 1 roofs for rope drag. The two old bolts on pitch one are antiques, but not that important.
Descend: Follow the low 5th class walk off north to the summit and down to the standard Witch descent - one single rope rap and low 5th class scrambling north.