Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Toivo Kodas (1982)
Page Views: 9,579 total · 61/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Outstanding!!
Do it one 70M! pitch for the best continuity and full value! IMO, the best 5.11 pitch at the Needles!

P1: 10d. Palming, stemming and laying it back is the business at the start of Pegleg/Ankles Away (50'). Its a little grainy and hard to pro but you have to do it.

P2: Awesome tips and finger crack action on a steep and bullet-proof slab! The pro is good when you get it in which adds to the difficulties. Trust your smears and go for it! Re-join Pegleg at its top (easy) corner and jam a fun crack to an easy corner and to the chain/common-rap anchor.

Location

Left end of the Witch. Chimney up the loose groove at the start of Airy Interlude or (better) find the easiest line of weakness up the rock band halfway down the descent gully.

Protection

2-3 sets of #4-7 BD Stoppers, one set med/large offset brass nuts, #00-2 TCU's, (2x) Red Alien Size, Red and Gold Camalot. Bring more nuts and small TCU's if you do it in one long 70M pitch.

Photos