Avg: 3.8 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m)|
|FA:||P. & S. Clark (July, 1977) FFA: Yaniro (1981)|
|Page Views:||2,699 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||D F on Oct 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
This golden corner of a route is an awesome adventure for solid 5.11+/5.12 leaders. I don't think it gets climbed much, as it was gritty and lichenous with cobwebs filling the thin crack in places when I did it on 10/19/08.
The crux is sustained and begins just off the ledge. Pro is limited and takes a cool head to place, but when you get it it's good. Falling 15 or 20 feet onto the ledge seemed to be a real possibility. Patience and endurance are the primary keys to safety on this one, I think.
I don't want to spoil the rest with detailed beta, as this one's value, for the time being, resides so much in its mystique, providing a reasonably safe head game at its finest. All I'll add is that, like Ankles Away, this route stays interesting all the way to the top.
For doing this in one pitch, a 60-meter rope might work if you go left at the top of the corner, avoiding the easy topout up and right and the subsequent rappel. Might as well take a 70, though, since that's the handy length for the area anyway.