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Routes in The Witch

Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Herb and Eve Laeger, 7-78
Page Views: 832 total, 7/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the attractive splitter crack on the prow left of Pegleg / Ankles Away. It starts in a chimney with stemming, commit to a couple face moves with good protection to land at the base of the main crack. The crack starts as a lower angled seam with poor protection then turns to excellent fingers and hands. Belay on a pillar (2-2.5" cams) or continue left back to the chimney and belay from there.

Location

Located on the left side of the West Face of the Witch, left of Pegleg and Ankles Away. Scramble up to the chimney and a little way back in to start. Descend the standard Witch walk off north.

Protection

Small aliens protect the crux very well, some tiny stoppers (RP's) until the crack gets fat then cams to 2".

Photos

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Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
 
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
 
Double ropes allow the leader to place good gear on the back side of the chimney giving excellent protection for the move from the chimney onto the face into the crack.

I think this is a great short climb, but not for everyone. Jul 23, 2014
Murf  
The guidebook is once again wrong, John has good beta in his description. Aug 8, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
The Moser, Vernon, Paul guidebook reads, "Poor protection for the move leaving the chimney to get to the crack." Dec 8, 2008