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Routes in The Witch

Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Kamps & Laeger - July, 1978
Page Views: 9,314 total, 67/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

AKA "Welcome to the Needles."

Yet another beautiful, perfect route -- I think it's the Witch's analog to the Don Juan Wall: shorter, and perhaps easier, but more heart-pounding and intense. The crux pitch is one of the most exceptional corners I've ever climbed -- super technical, sustained, devious, and full of committing moves above fiddly gear.

P1: Begin at a small left-facing left-leaning loose-ish flake system. Place some uninspiring gear (I believe there's a shitty pin as well), then perform some committing moves up and right onto the face. A few desperate moves to a thank-God clip. A fall before this bolt would be at best violent and at worst catastrophic. Wander right, then back left and up to a second bolt (crux, 5.11a, er, 5.10a). Continue up to a crack and belay at a stance.

P2: Enter the long left-facing corner system. Climb this system at desperate, difficult 5.11, er, 5.10. Belay at another obvious stance.

P3: Climb a short 5.8 pitch up an overhanging flake system. Do NOT link this into the next pitch (when things look really hard, stop).

P4: Climb the increasingly hard 5.10 dihedral. RPs and TCUs galore. A combination of jamming, palm smearing, and arete pinching will get you through the sustained 5.11+, er, 5.10+ crux. It is possible to run this pitch all the way to the top, or you can step right and belay for a short 5.8 summit pitch.

Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.

Protection

Double cams from TCUs through #1 Camalot. A single #2 Camalot. Wires & RPs. Quickdraws (no slings needed).
Ted Baker
Caribou, CA
 
Ted Baker   Caribou, CA
 
We did the first pitch by climbing up and clipping the first bolt on Wicked and then placing a small piece before walking over to the Spook Book second bolt on a rail. This added another bouldery move at that first bolt. Aug 3, 2015
Impressions

P1 5.9 or 10- R to the first bolt. Move to the second bolt is semi impossible if you are short. For me at 6'2 it felt like a solid 5.10 at least to reach the holds on the right. No feet, got to heel hook and mantle
P2 5.11 solid trickery in one spot. Hope for fixed nuts here, if they are not there it will be mentally more challenging. Bring a single #2 cam which you can place in a good spot to protect the small traverse right. If you did it right, you can link this with the next pitch which felt 5.9ish.
P3 or 4 (the other corner), felt 5.10+ish, not harder but not much easier. Or can step out to the face and do some sick face climbing. Great climbing on this pitch. Protection is available, moves are fun etc etc. Awesome.
Last pitch to the top is fairly short and easy. 5.7 or 8 with lots of pro. May 26, 2015
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
Long pitches work well.

P1: Up to the ledge at the start of the business.

P2: 190 ft. to the ledge on the little tower.

P3: Another long pitch to a belay on a keystone shaped chockstone.

P4: Scramble to the top. Jan 3, 2015
Josh Janes    
 
:) Oct 3, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
No Josh, I've actually used them a lot all over and I think that they're great. Sorry if I communicated otherwise. You just happened to have written descriptions for almost all the routes I climbed here and I felt that I had some useful beta/perspective to add... Oct 3, 2014
Josh Janes    
 
Max, do you not like my Mountain Project descriptions? Sep 29, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I'd agree with the above comment that P2 is the crux. It's also the only pitch that really needs any amount of RPs (and you'll be fine with a single set...) The 'crux' pitch is pretty mellow, well protected enduro climbing with no distinct crux. (Despite what the description here would lead you to believe.)

Also, the fixed pin is gone and a good marker for where to belay after the 5.8 (besides 'when the climbing gets hard') is at the perfect foot ledge at the top of the flakes. Sep 28, 2014
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.10+ R
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.10+ R
P1 - The move to the first bolt is only ~5.9. It is mentally challenging, but not hard. The 5.10a section is after clipping the first bolt. Bolts are modern.

P2 - The definitive crux. Bring RP's or expect to run it out. Recommend linking Pitches 2 & 3.

We brought doubles to #2 Camalot with triples in the finger sizes, offset alloy and brass nuts, regular set of nuts.

This route lives up to its classic status. It is very safe (with the right gear), other than the move to the first bolt on P1. Get on it! Sep 9, 2013
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
Hi Eric - FYI Bob Kamp's contemporaneous notes from the FA have him placing the first bolt and Herb Laeger the second. On the first day,7-9-78, they ran out of time and traversed to Inner Sanctum to escape from about P3. Came back 7-15-78 and did the whole line. May 23, 2011
Rob Dillon  
 
10+ on A3 gear should keep your attention where it belongs. This was pretty close to my limit at the time and it sure had mine. Don't skimp on the brass. Aug 14, 2007
A great route with a very committing move to the bolt on the first pitch. The second bolt was added by another party. The new bolt protects a tricky move to the right. You are also a long way out and will probably get banged up if you blow the last moves getting to the first belay ledge. This was for our party the spook part of the book. It would be really exciting if 10+ was your limit. Jul 18, 2007
This climb struck me as fairly graded although getting to the bolt on P1 was harrowing. The book proper reminded me a lot of Devils Tower. Jun 25, 2006
Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
 
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
 
Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together with a 60m rope. Have your head on straight for this one and bring plenty of wires and RPs. Jun 22, 2006