Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Kamps & Laeger - July, 1978
Page Views: 13,794 total · 64/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


58 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

AKA "Welcome to the Needles."

Yet another beautiful, perfect route -- I think it's the Witch's analog to the Don Juan Wall: shorter, and perhaps easier, but more heart-pounding and intense. The crux pitch is one of the most exceptional corners I've ever climbed -- super technical, sustained, devious, and full of committing moves above fiddly gear.

P1: Begin at a small left-facing left-leaning loose-ish flake system. Place some uninspiring gear (I believe there's a shifty pin as well), then perform some committing moves up and right onto the face. A few tense moments lead to a thank-God clip. A fall before this bolt would be at best violent and at worst catastrophic. Wander right, then back left and up to a second bolt (crux, 5.10a). Continue up to a crack and belay at a stance.

P2: Enter the long left-facing corner system. Climb this system at desperate, difficult 5.10. Belay at another obvious stance.

P3: Climb a short 5.8 pitch up an overhanging flake system. I recommend not linking this into the next pitch (when things look really hard, stop).

P4: Climb the increasingly hard 5.10 dihedral. RPs and TCUs galore. A combination of jamming, palm smearing, and arete pinching will get you through the sustained 5.10+ crux. It is possible to run this pitch all the way to the top, or you can step right and belay for a short 5.8 summit pitch.

Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.

Protection Suggest change

Double cams from TCUs through #1 Camalot. A single #2 Camalot. Wires & RPs. Quickdraws (no slings needed).

Photos

loading