Avg: 3.9 from 33 votes
Routes in The Witch
|Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R|
|Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Kamps & Laeger - July, 1978|
|Page Views:||9,314 total, 67/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAKA "Welcome to the Needles."
Yet another beautiful, perfect route -- I think it's the Witch's analog to the Don Juan Wall: shorter, and perhaps easier, but more heart-pounding and intense. The crux pitch is one of the most exceptional corners I've ever climbed -- super technical, sustained, devious, and full of committing moves above fiddly gear.
P1: Begin at a small left-facing left-leaning loose-ish flake system. Place some uninspiring gear (I believe there's a shitty pin as well), then perform some committing moves up and right onto the face. A few desperate moves to a thank-God clip. A fall before this bolt would be at best violent and at worst catastrophic. Wander right, then back left and up to a second bolt (crux, 5.11a, er, 5.10a). Continue up to a crack and belay at a stance.
P2: Enter the long left-facing corner system. Climb this system at desperate, difficult 5.11, er, 5.10. Belay at another obvious stance.
P3: Climb a short 5.8 pitch up an overhanging flake system. Do NOT link this into the next pitch (when things look really hard, stop).
P4: Climb the increasingly hard 5.10 dihedral. RPs and TCUs galore. A combination of jamming, palm smearing, and arete pinching will get you through the sustained 5.11+, er, 5.10+ crux. It is possible to run this pitch all the way to the top, or you can step right and belay for a short 5.8 summit pitch.
Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.