Type: Trad
FA: Lechlinski, Bruckman, & Gingery
Page Views: 5,568 total · 32/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Terrorvision. I cannot think of a better name for this route - not for the faint of heart! The position of the belay alone will make your palms sweat!

Approach via the top of the huge pillar/buttress on the lower West face of the Witch (via Phosphorescent Flow?). An easy 5th-class traverse right will take you around to the south flank of the Witch. Terrorvision climbs the SE arete of the feature with amazing views of the lower reaches of the Warlock and the valley below... You feel alone up here... lots of air and not much else.

Set up a gear belay on a small perch on east side of the arete. The route clips a pin and then launches up an improbable overhanging arete on awkward but decent holds. Clip a couple bolts and then heel hook and pull over the roof onto the face left of the arete. Ascend this past 10 bolts to an anchor.

There are several 5.11/5.11+ cruxes and also long runouts past the last two bolts. Also, the bolts are old expansion bolts (this route would feel much safer if the ones on the overhanging portion were replaced; I remember one in particular that was hanging a half-inch out of the rock - I pushed it back in with my thumb before clipping it).

I believe you can climb easy rock to the summit with no gear, but we chose to rap, reverse the traverse, and rap back to the ground.

Protection

A dozen quickdraws for the route (a few slings for the first couple bolts), and a couple finger-size cams for the belay.

Photos