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Routes in The Witch

Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Innersanctum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA: Laeger & Clark (August 1976) FFA: Kamps & partner (1977) Complete chimney: Rich Smith & Dick Shaum (1977)
Page Views: 1,491 total · 14/month
Shared By: Mike on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

A fun route with options.

P1: Ascend the right facing corner for a long pitch to a belay stance (5.9). Alternately, one can do Gorilla Warfare to get to the belay.

P2: A short pitch. A few easy moves left, then up & right up an easy ramp/crack to belay at the base of a beautiful corner crack.

P3: A classic! Jam, undercling, & lieback up & left, then around the corner to even better climbing to a bolted belay (5.10b).

P4: Yopu have 2 options. Either climb straight up the chimney/offwidth (The Pit version) to the top, or pendulum left (the, um, Pendulum version) to another right facing corner which leads to the top. The Pit version is 5.10+, the Pendulum version is 5.9 A0.

From the top, scramble up to the summit (class 4), then the standard descent.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts down low on The Witch. Scramble down the notch to the right facing corner about 40' past (right of) Gorilla Warfare.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles from small to #3 camalot, one set of nuts, and several slings. If doing The Pit version, also bring a #6 camalot or 2, and an optional big bro might also help.

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Murf  
Turning the lip after the layback is tricky, and consensus is the corner is stout for .10b. Jul 19, 2010
ttriche
Grand Rapids, MI
ttriche   Grand Rapids, MI
Well, I feel better now... that pitch felt pretty stiff for .10a or whatever the topo says it is. I fell all over the place on it, and that's back when I could actually climb 5.10. Jul 19, 2010
Cassidy Anderson
San Diego, CA
Cassidy Anderson   San Diego, CA
I spent three weeks climbing in the needles in the summer of '11 and I've got to say this was the proudest line I climbed in spite of the fact that I ended up taking just after the squeeze chimney "the pit." We climbed gorilla warfare into this route in order to maximize on offwidthery. Both routes I believe are rated 10+ but I found GW to be far easier than the crux pitch of the pit. At any rate super fun and wild climbing! Mar 22, 2013

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