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Routes in The Witch

Airy Interlude T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ankles Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Brute Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entity, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Gorilla Warfare T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Tide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Igor Unchained T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Innersanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nautilus, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Pegleg T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Phosphorescent Flow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pit & The Pendulum, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pizzazz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pulp Friction T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Shazam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spook Book T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Terrorvision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wicked West of the Witch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Witch Doctor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA: Laeger & Clark (August 1976) FFA: Kamps & partner (1977) Complete chimney: Rich Smith & Dick Shaum (1977)
Page Views: 1,403 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mike on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A fun route with options.

P1: Ascend the right facing corner for a long pitch to a belay stance (5.9). Alternately, one can do Gorilla Warfare to get to the belay.

P2: A short pitch. A few easy moves left, then up & right up an easy ramp/crack to belay at the base of a beautiful corner crack.

P3: A classic! Jam, undercling, & lieback up & left, then around the corner to even better climbing to a bolted belay (5.10b).

P4: Yopu have 2 options. Either climb straight up the chimney/offwidth (The Pit version) to the top, or pendulum left (the, um, Pendulum version) to another right facing corner which leads to the top. The Pit version is 5.10+, the Pendulum version is 5.9 A0.

From the top, scramble up to the summit (class 4), then the standard descent.

Location

Starts down low on The Witch. Scramble down the notch to the right facing corner about 40' past (right of) Gorilla Warfare.

Protection

Doubles from small to #3 camalot, one set of nuts, and several slings. If doing The Pit version, also bring a #6 camalot or 2, and an optional big bro might also help.

Photos

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Elush
CA
Elush   CA
I spent three weeks climbing in the needles in the summer of '11 and I've got to say this was the proudest line I climbed in spite of the fact that I ended up taking just after the squeeze chimney "the pit." We climbed gorilla warfare into this route in order to maximize on offwidthery. Both routes I believe are rated 10+ but I found GW to be far easier than the crux pitch of the pit. At any rate super fun and wild climbing! Mar 22, 2013
ttriche
Altadena, CA
ttriche   Altadena, CA
Well, I feel better now... that pitch felt pretty stiff for .10a or whatever the topo says it is. I fell all over the place on it, and that's back when I could actually climb 5.10. Jul 19, 2010
Murf  
Turning the lip after the layback is tricky, and consensus is the corner is stout for .10b. Jul 19, 2010