Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 49.68745, -123.14652
FA: R. Willmott and P. Botta, 1962
Page Views: 28,046 total · 127/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Nov 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
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Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This a really good route, and a nice option to avoid the crowds on Diedre, with only a few moves that are harder than climbing the latter. There are a couple of undercling traverses that are high in the grade.

Pitch 0: (5.7) Diagonal left to a leftward ramp and belay at a tree

(Note: Pitch 0 is equal to Pitch 1 in the book, but kept pitch numbers for consistency with comments)

Pitch 1: (5.7) Some great liebacking up the obvious corner, crossing left over the arete to end at bolted anchor

Pitch 2: (5.9) Traverse left with spaced pro to tree'd ledge from either a friction slab traverse or move higher on some fingers. Belay at tree partway up the ledge at base of corner.

Pitch 3 (5.9) Move up the corner with a few delicate 5.9 liebacking moves to bolted anchor. You can move above the corner into some fingers but make sure to test the flakes.

Pitch 4 (5.9) Up the corner on increasingly delicate moves past a bolt to the ledge. Past a small tree do a hands traverse, reaching far right or open hand on lip to pull around the corner to bolted anchor. The feet are thin!

Pitch 5 (5.7) Continue up the corner, then left up a loose gully. 

Descent

Option 1: Walk left across some face (might have fixed lines) to the top of St. Victus then do some easy moves up and right to get on Broadway Ledge and walk off to base.

Option 2: Rappel by St. Vitus (book says 4x30m) into South Gulley

Location Suggest change

Same approach as for Diedre, straight up from the parking lot, past the toilet, and go left where the trail splits. Watch for the small ramp above the trail, it is hard to see, but if you are looking for something you wouldn't normally see on an approach you won't miss it! Climb this (easy 5th) up and right to a dirt ledge. From here, if you go right, you'll come to the base of Diedre. 

Look diagonal left for Pitch 0 which can be lead or solo'd if comfortable up the dirt ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, all of the belays are bolted or trees. Gear up to 3 inches, though nothing really big is needed.

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Photos

Beta Photo: Pitch 1 of Snake
Beta Photo: Pitch 1 of Snake
 1
Pitch 4. I found this pitch to be sustained. Probably the most enjoyable pitch on the climb for me. The traverse is exciting on lead :)
Pitch 4. I found this pitch to be sustained.…
 3
Start of the route
Start of the route
 4
Climbing Snake.
Climbing Snake.
 2
Pitch 4 traverse
Pitch 4 traverse
 2
Pitch 4, tricky traverse
Pitch 4, tricky traverse
 1
Pitch 5<br>
Pitch 5
 1
Pitch 4
Pitch 4
 2
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
 2
On the crux pitch, July 2014
On the crux pitch, July 2014
 2
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
 2
On the wrong anchor at the top of P1 (guidebook P2). This pitch goes up the corner, and seemingly ends at the obvious anchor at the tree. Instead, cut left just short of the tree and take the scary dyke traverse to a bolted anchor just around the corner
On the wrong anchor at the top of P1 (guidebook…
 0

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