Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This short top-rope is a good quick climb to finish off your afternoon at Cueva. The anchors are easily accessible and it has a great view over the Rio Grande Valley. That said, it's not a spectacular climb. At first glance, one notices many signs that holds have broken off. In actuality, the holds are all solid and I don't think more rock will be torn off unless you start to meander from the route.
The climb takes a vertical line up a short face, utilizing a few hidden,deep, and narrow pockets.
Location
Find this climb on the north side of the western-most spit of rock at Cueva. The climb isn't obvious from the ground; there are two climbable crack systems on this wall, and Swainson is to the west of both of these. The best way to find the climb is to scramble up to the anchors. Reaching the anchor requires easy 5th class scrambling along the easy western-most slabs.
Protection
This climb is an example of bolts which ought to be replaced. Two rusty 1/4" bolts on top of the wall provide ample holding power for a TR, but do not inspire great confidence. They are set back 10 feet from the sloping lip so bring some webbing to extend the anchor. One of the bolts sports a few rusty iron rings which I can only presume is for rapping off of. Remember, use good climbing judgement!
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