Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Home to primo, rhyolite sport climbing (for detailed geological information, see comments). Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.
In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.
Getting There
Drive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Road). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Drive (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Drive, soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through (yet). Follow the road left, then back right (this section is known to locals as "The Big Intestine"). Once through the guard station, continue up West Jemez for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Road, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).
Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).
Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Drive, immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Road - this is before you cross the bridge. Follow West Road down into the canyon, passing the ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Road) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Road, you will merge with West Jemez Road, but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.
(More thorough directions provided thanks to Jason Hundhausen)
Other Resources
For resources check out the Jemez Rock guide by Marc Beverly
Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare! Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb....[more]
Tony, I like the new introduction. I'm no geologist but I thought the Dungeon was rhyolite. I will admit it seems a lot different than soccoro, which I also thought was rhyolite. Obviously it doesn;t matter much. Any geologists been to the Dungeon?
Really strange... If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how tht rock was so rare... That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country). Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.
Let's not get into the habit of assuming the Falcon Guide is correct! ;) Surely, with highest per capita number of PHDs in the country in Los Alamos, somebody ought to be able to tell us what kind of rock it is...
...Tony B,
I know nothing of the book, but I'm sure there is rhyolite at Smith Rock in Oregon (the Smith rhyolite is the spitting image of Socorro rhyolite). Interestingly, Smith also has tuff and basalt. So it seems there is some cosmic geologic link between NM and OR, besides the common presence of the Monomaniac.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jun 6, 2007
Ha ha, very true, those things have screwed me at least once. A black canyon trip comes to mind..... Guess I "assumed" that the guidebook would be more accurate and researched than my probably incorrect non-geologist impression that it was basalt!
Come on Geologists!
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 3, 2007
Although not terribly relevant at this point.. I looked some of this up this morning. The rock at the Dungeon is rhyolite: Tschicoma Formation of the Polvadera Group (Pliocene age). The rock at Back Rocks is the same formation. The rock at 3 other Jemez areas (Cochiti Mesa, Las Conchas, Battleship Rock) is also rhyolite (but of different formations), so there's 4 different kinds of rhyolite that people climb on in the Jemez- and others that aren't developed for climbing (yet). Rhyolite refers to volcanic or shallow level rock with high silica content (actually compositionally similar to granite- it would have formed granite had it cooled really really really slowly under the ground instead of erupting). The obvious textural differences between the rhyolite at these areas reflects the temperature and how quickly they cooled, how readily they "flowed", the water content, and more recent erosional/weathering processes (like amount of rain, frequency of freeze/thaw, which depends on aspect and elevation, etc., etc.).
Socorro Box I think is also rhyolite, but I haven't looked up the details on it. The reason it is much darker in color is probably because the area has seen much movement of hydrothermal fluids after the rock formed, which changes the chemistry by taking some elements and leaving others.
Killer explanation George! Thanks. Its hard to believe Cochiti has basically the same rock as the Dungeon. Where do "Volcanic Tuff" and or "welded tuff" fit into the picture?
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 4, 2007
Tuff describes the origin as having come from volcanic ash (all tuffs are volcanic), and rhyolite refers to the chemical composition. So a rock can be a 'rhyolite ashflow tuff' all at once.
For more geologic details of east Jemez rhyolites and related rocks, see: Singer and Kudo (1986)'s article in 'Contributions to Mineralogy and Petrology', v. 94, p. 374-386. Those guys call it 'andesite' at the Dungeon actually, which is sort of similar to rhyolite, but has a little less silica. I think I've also seen this formation called 'dacite' in some publication. I'm not really sure which of these is right.. it's really a distinction in chemistry that only geochemists would want to worry about.