All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > La Cueva > Shady Side

Banana Splits

Name: Banana Splits
Rating: 2.9

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Shady Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Banana Splits T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
	GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Green Ramp, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	This is Not a Test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

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Type:	Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS:	32.3351, -106.5942
FA:	FA late 1950s 5.6 A3 Harry Davis & J. Mack Adams, FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980
Page Views:	1,120 total · 5/month
Shared By:	cuclimbing on Mar 24, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

You can access the top rope anchors from Rotten Reality or you can free climb a 4th class Lichen face around the north corner and descend a shaky 15 feet to the crack. The bolts and hangers are old and rusty, I use them but don't trust them....Bad combo. I would back it up with some pro. Hopefully, this summer I can get some good bolts in for everyone. There is quite a bit of rope drag from the top rope, especially when you get close to the overhang. starting the route and the overhang are the 2 crux in the climb. with a 60m rope the climber and belayer have to get a boost to be roped in. Awesome route with some nice hand and finger jams. Get's mellow towards the end, nice way to in the climb and a fun free rappel back down!

Location

West of Rotten Reality in an area my brother and I have dubbed "The Basin". You can't miss this huge split up the rock. You can access it from the north trail, or bushwack a bit from the southern la cueva trail under a huge boulder. Awesome place to climb in summer, nice and cool.

Protection

2 old bolts are at the top of the route. about 20ft below, right above the overhand, is another old bolt. A good place to set an aider. right below the overhang above "the step" is a new bolt. On the step is an old piton. about 20-30 ft up is a jammed tri-cam, an old piton used to be right by it but i broke it in a fall. a good set of cams can easily do the trick. on the overhang, i could barely fit in a 0 cam and i wouldnt trust the rock in a fall.