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The Enchanted Tower
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(01) South and Southwest (R) Face 
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(03) North (L) Side of the tower 

The Enchanted Tower

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Elevation: 8,000 feet
Views: 23,795 page views

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The Tower
Goliath followes the arete along the sun...



Description 

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. The easiest (and therefore most popular) route on the Tower proper is Golden Staircase at 5.11b. This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

Routes are listed starting on the South (or right side) of the tower, around to the North end.


Getting There 

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Enchanted Tower:
(15) Grendel   5.11b     Sport, 80 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(04) Golden Stairs   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   (01) South and Southwest (R...
(14) Once Upon a Time   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(01) Hippogriff   5.11d     Sport, 80 feet   (01) South and Southwest (R...
(02) Flotsam & Jetsam   5.12a     Sport, 70 feet   (01) South and Southwest (R...
(18) Technowitch   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(13) Rumplestiltskin   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(16) Tinkerbell's Nightmare   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(11) Jabberwocky   5.12b     Sport, 95 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(17) Straight On Til Morning   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(03) Shipwrecked   5.12c     Sport, 80 feet   (01) South and Southwest (R...
(09) Mad Hatter   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   (02) West (Center) Face
(07) Ripped Van Winkle   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   (02) West (Center) Face
(06) Goliath   5.13a     Sport, 110 feet   (01) South and Southwest (R...
Browse More Classics in The Enchanted Tower

Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower
Aaron on "Jabberwocky."

(11) Jabberwocky 5.12b  NM : Enchanted Tower : ... : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
Start to the left of Rubber Mission. This route is on the right side of the north face of the tower. Difficult crux is down low, from there it's a matter of fighting the pump to make it over the lip, where it lightens from there....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of The Enchanted Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on the west face of The Tower. This picture shows how steep some of the routes get near the top.

Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...

The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nearly-full moon, October 2009.

The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...

Enchanted Tower at night in August.<br /><br />flickr.com/thedan86

Enchanted Tower at night in August.

flickr.com/th...


Moon over the Tower.

Moon over the Tower.


Comments on The Enchanted Tower Add Comment
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By Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006

The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now.