The Enchanted Tower  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  8,000' Page Views:  69,573. Good page?    Administrators:  Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Submitted By:  Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 84° | 46° 84° | 54° 81° | 39° 81° | 39° 75° | 37°

Thompson Canyon access can be closed. Please follow these simple rules to help keep it open MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon can and will be locked at times through out the year. This is due to the ranch's concerns about excessive traffic at night and the continued threat of wild fires. As a private road, the landowners have the right to close off this access point. When the gate is locked the area can still accessed through Davenport Canyon, but be advised that this is rough 4WD and takes about 1 hour to drive in that way. New Mexico CRAG will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. Here is the latest plan from the landowner (Updated March 2012): PRIVATE ROAD RESTRICTIONS This road is private property for the next 1.5 miles. Please respect the restrictions below. If you do not, permission to use the road will likely be revoked. Timing - This road is closed for through traffic at all the following times: [From 1 September to 30 January (unless otherwise specified on www.XXX)]; All public holidays (including adjacent Mondays and Fridays); and At any time after dark. The owner may temporarily close it at other times. Please respect temporary signs. Use of road – When using the private road: You do so at your own risk. It is not maintained and, for example, is unsuitable for passenger cars. No RVs or other heavy vehicles are permitted. Do not exceed 15 mph. Leave gates as you find them (open or closed). [Remove all waste, including human waste]. Alternative access to Thompson Canyon: There is an alternative access approximately 3 miles to the West, via Davenport Canyon, on FR6 and FR59 (4WD). See www. XXXX for details and temporary closures. This permission may be revoked at any time. Presumably the website will either be this or the Stone Age Climbing Gym site or both Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

The Tower
Goliath followes the arete along the sun...

Description 

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. The easiest (and therefore most popular) route on the Tower proper is Golden Staircase at 5.11b. This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

Routes are listed starting on the South (or right side) of the tower, around to the North end.

Getting There 

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower

Golden Stairs 5.11c  NM : Enchanted Tower : ... : (01) South and Southwest (R...

A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from ther...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Enchanted Tower Slideshow

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Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...	The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...	Enchanted Tower at night in August. flickr.com/th...
Moon over the Tower.