| Mt. Whitney |
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Whitney and Keeler from the drive to Whitney Porta...
Description Want to climb the highest peak in the lower 48? You're not alone. While the permit process is a major hassle, the crowds are thin (until you summit), and the granite is as fine as it gets. Most climbs are about 1000 feet tall on the east face that gets shady by afternoon. Storms can brew over on the west side and give you quite a surprise. There are two non-technical ways to the summit: the Whitney trail, a long slog up an easy walking trail, and the Mountaineers Route, a steep gully filled with loose rock, which is the usual descent route for climbers. There's a decent campground at the end of the road, near the trailhead. You must have a permit to camp anywhere beyond that, and they're not easy to get. Call 760-873-2483 or go to the forest service's website. Unless you're doing the Whitney Trail, you want a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.
Getting There Drive up the Whitney portal at about 8,300 feet. Lots of parking and bear boxes, where you need to leave anything with an odor that you're not bringing, including toiletries. Most people spend the night at either Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet) or Iceberg Lake (12,600 feet). Iceberg is the way to go if you have the time. Incredible views of the mountain (and most routes), clear water right in front of you, and the climbing starts just a little ways up the scree slope from your campsite. Getting there is tough and it's quite easy to get off route. I recommend buying the supertopo and follow the excellent instructions there. The hike can get really hot. Start early (dawn) and you'll get to a campsite by lunch, have time to rest up and scope the route.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Whitney:
East Face 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
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Featured Route For Mt. Whitney
East Face 5.6 CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney
From Iceberg Lake, scramble up to the notch just above the First Tower. Gear up. Make the Tower Traverse across the south face of the Second Tower, and climb a short chimney (5.4-5.5) to the first belay.Scramble or simul climb up three pitches of 4th - easy 5th to the top of the Washboard. Climb left up and over a tower/chimney (5.2-5.5) to a large ledge, and traverse to the base of the Fresh Air Traverse. The Fresh Air Traverse pitch (5.5) climbs easy ground up then left to three fixed piton... [more] Browse More Classics in CA
Mt. Whitney at sunrise. Mountaineer's route goes ...
| BETA PHOTO: Camp at Iceberg Lake. Moutaineers route is up the...
| Dawn at Iceberg Lake
| BETA PHOTO: East Face of Whitney
| Good photo of the East Face and East Buttress rout...
| Looking up toward the Peewee boulder on Whitney's ...
| Not much further to the top, Mt. Whitney
| BETA PHOTO: Looking back at the approach up the N. Fork of Lon...
| Your first glimpse of Mt. Whitney on the North For...
| Early morning at Upper Boy Scout Lake, Mt. Whitney...
| Joe O'Connor at the end of the Ebersbacher Ledges....
| Looking down the mountaineer's route. June 05
| Looking toward Lonepine
| BETA PHOTO: Fresh Air Traverse
| Mt. Whitney from Alabama Hills. Photo by Blitzo.
| Mt. Whitney area
| Mt. Whitney area
| Mt. Whitney area
| Mt. Whitney area
| Mt Whitney area
| Looking at Mt Whitney from the backside (just past...
| Outpost Camp
| Approaching Whitney/Russell
| What more can you ask for?
| Proverbial summit shot after scaring the bejesus o...
| Dustin views Whitney from the Alabama hills
| Mt. Whitney from the Russell-Carillon saddle - lat...
| On the upper snowfield near the summit. January 2...
| Whitney from the Alabama Hills
| Camp at Iceberg Lake
| BETA PHOTO: The notch at the top of the Mountaineer's Route gu...
| Looking down the Mountaineer's Route at Iceberg La...
| The view up the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek to Mt. ...
| Duke on the approach nearing Iceberg Lake with Kee...
| Mt. Whitney and Keeler in the alpine glow. August ...
| Sun setting behind Mt. Whitney from the approach t...
| Whitney Massif
| Diego Navarro stands just below the notch, during ...
| Mt Whitney Backcountry
| Above Iceberg Lake
| Jodi Levine and Arin Trook descend from Iceberg La...
| Mt. Whitney view of the East Face
| Mt. Whitney. Photo by Blitzo.
| The Ebersbacher Ledges on the North Fork approach,...
| The view back down from Upper Boyscout Lake, Mt. W...
| View south from the summit.
| Evening at Upper Boyscout Lake
| Another shot of morning light on the Whitney Crest
| coming down the mountaineer's route
| Whitney in the morning glory.
| Approaching Mt Whitney
| Whitney massif
| Another water run at Iceberg Lake
| Looking north from near the top, Mt. Whitney
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By ClimbandMine Jan 30, 2006
| You can easily (well, maybe not easily) do the East Face, East Butt, or Mountaineer's Route in a day. IF (big if) you know the approach to Iceberg Lake. You'll be doing it in the dark. Early season the creek is high and you'll be crossing it. The trail may be running with water. You will get wet. You may get soaked. Like the man said, buy the Supertaco. The directions are excellent. Scope the approach in daylight if you've never done it. |
By Christopher Jones From: Denver, Colorado Mar 19, 2006
| Don't take the mountaineer's route too lightly. I climbed the route on the first day of summer last year thinking I could do it pretty fast but found snow most of the way above treeline. Post holing sucked a lot of energy out of me on the descent but still managed to finish the route in 11.5 hours. It is a good idea to find out what current conditions are before climbing. Crampons and axe are necessary early in the season. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Nov 19, 2007
| If you're going to do it in a day (perhaps because you couldn't get a permit) then yes, intimate knowledge of the North Fork approach and the selected route is mandatory - altitude conditioning is also mandatory. Don't forget to pack out your puke. |
By Scott Rice From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 25, 2012
| East Face to the top of the washboards. Direct East Face to the top of the PeeWee. East Buttress to the summit. 7 hr 20 min car to car. Direct makes for a TERRIFYING solo!! |
By Sdm1568 From: Ca Oct 1, 2012
| Is anyone doing mountaineer's route this winter/spring? |
By Will Treichler May 14, 2013
| I dropped a green fleece and black shell on the snow field leading off the summit. I will pay shipping+ if someone happened to pick them up. Sorry for trashing the mountain. |
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