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Mt. Hood

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cooper Spur T 
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
Elliot Glacier Headwall 
Leuthold Couloir T 
North Face, The T 
Ravine T 
Reid Glacier Headwall 
Sandy Glacier Headwall T 
South Side Route T 
Sunshine Route 
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) 
Wy'East 
Unsorted Routes:

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mt. Hood 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,239'
Location: 45.3733, -121.6957 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 98,912
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The beautiful north face of Hood with Eliot Glacie...

Description 

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.


Getting There 

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Hood:
Cooper Spur   Mod. Snow X     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Sandy Glacier Headwall   Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
South Side Route   Easy Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Sunshine Route   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Leuthold Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
The North Face   WI3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300'   
Wy'East   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 5000'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Hood

Featured Route For Mt. Hood
Looking up at the lower section of the route, from the Bergschrund

Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow  OR : Mt. Hood
This is one of the longer lines on the mountain, and is fairly committed. Depending on which variation you do (there are probably a half dozen established variations, and even more possible), there are between 4 and 7 ice steps, ranging from 10' to closer to 40 on the upper reaches. The steps are technically not difficult, as ice goes, but probably exceed most climbers' single-ax ability- two tools is advisable. Route-finding seems to be the biggest difficulty climbers have on this route. A numb...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Mt. Hood Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, Oregon
Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...
The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in the distance.
The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in...
Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2009 8:05am
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...
Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been done and I'm looking at another to do...
Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...
Watching another climber make his way up.
Watching another climber make his way up.
The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
Look at all that fun to be had!!
Look at all that fun to be had!!
Looking back at the other climbers.
Looking back at the other climbers.
speak softly and wear a loud shirt.  driving up to cooper spur
speak softly and wear a loud shirt. driving up to...
Comments on Mt. Hood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006

According to recent news reports, this is the 2nd most climbed mountain in the world. Any clue as to the 1st?

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Dec 18, 2006

From what I've heard, Mt. Hood is the 2nd most glaciated mountain climbed in the world. Mt. Fuji is #1.

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 11, 2007

Has anyone climbed Hood in August?
I'm considering it but it would be my first climb involving glacier travel and I'm not sure I'm up to it. Any thoughts?
Thanks.

By Nate Farr
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 6, 2008

Hood's not recommended in August because rockfall gets too bad. Most people would say up until June, and then again once the rock freezes up in the late fall.

By Roswell
From: Newnan. Ga
Dec 17, 2013

Conditions Mid-March to Mid-May and if possible to climb. Reliable source for checking conditions would be appreciated.

By Fred Knapp
May 16, 2014

Mt Hood: A Climber's Guide went off to the printer today. This is a fabulous book compelled by Bill Mullee with writing and input from over 30 Hood veterans, including Fred Beckey and Jim Wickwire!

Pre-purchase it now and get a free 2-year subscription to the eBook and free domestic shipping!

stores.sharpendbooks.com/mt-hood-a-climbers-guide-pre-purcha>>>