Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mt. Hood

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cooper Spur T 
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
Elliot Glacier Headwall 
Leuthold Couloir T 
North Face, The T 
Ravine T 
Reid Glacier Headwall 
Sandy Glacier Headwall T 
South Side Route T 
Sunshine Route 
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) 
Wy'East 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Timothy Lake Loop
A great combination of fun singletrack and flowing trails. Near Mount Hood Village, Oregon
Timothy Lake Trail #528
This trail follows all but the eastern side of Timothy Lake. Great views of Mt. Hood and Jefferson. Near Mount Hood Village, Oregon
Gunsight Ridge Trail
A short, but rigorous ridge trail that has spectacular views of Mt. Hood. Near Hood River, Oregon
Gunsight Ridge
A rigorous ridge trail that has spectacular views of Mt. Hood. Near Hood River, Oregon
Sandy Ridge Trail System - Full Tour
Excellent flow and downhill singletrack; an exceptional gravity experience. Near Sandy, Oregon
Quid Pro Flow
A flow trail with big jumps, rollers and multiple lines. Near Sandy, Oregon
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mt. Hood  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,239'
Location: 45.3733, -121.6957 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 114,909
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful north face of Hood with Eliot Glacie...

Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Description 

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There 

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Hood:
Cooper Spur   Mod. Snow X     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Sandy Glacier Headwall   Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Sunshine Route   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Leuthold Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
The North Face   WI3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300'   
Reid Glacier Headwall   AI3 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2500'   
South Side Route   Easy Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300'   
Wy'East   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 5000'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Hood

Featured Route For Mt. Hood
Climbing up the awesome ice flow

Ravine WI3 M4 Mod. Snow  OR : Mt. Hood
Route starts out with easy ice and progresses to a steep and a little overhanging bulge (crux). When we climbed it, the bulge did not have great placements for feet and required some fun moves to be passed. Ice flow was thick and offered solid protection opportunities. I was also able to place a # 1 BD Camalot (Red) and # 3 Metolious (orange). Aside from these two placements I did not see other opportunities for rock pro. After the bulge is passed, follow more fun ice till you reach ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Mt. Hood Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...
Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...
The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in...
The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in...
The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...
Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...
Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...
The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
speak softly and wear a loud shirt.  driving up to...
speak softly and wear a loud shirt. driving up to...
Looking back at the other climbers.
Looking back at the other climbers.
Watching another climber make his way up.
Watching another climber make his way up.
Look at all that fun to be had!!
Look at all that fun to be had!!
Summit
Summit

Comments on Mt. Hood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
According to recent news reports, this is the 2nd most climbed mountain in the world. Any clue as to the 1st?
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Dec 18, 2006
From what I've heard, Mt. Hood is the 2nd most glaciated mountain climbed in the world. Mt. Fuji is #1.
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 11, 2007
Has anyone climbed Hood in August?
I'm considering it but it would be my first climb involving glacier travel and I'm not sure I'm up to it. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
By Nate Farr
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 6, 2008
Hood's not recommended in August because rockfall gets too bad. Most people would say up until June, and then again once the rock freezes up in the late fall.
By Roswell
From: Newnan. Ga
Dec 17, 2013
Conditions Mid-March to Mid-May and if possible to climb. Reliable source for checking conditions would be appreciated.
By Fred Knapp
May 16, 2014
Mt Hood: A Climber's Guide is now available. This is a fabulous book compelled by Bill Mullee with writing and input from over 30 Hood veterans, including Fred Beckey and Jim Wickwire!

Purchase it now and get a free 2-year subscription to the eBook!

stores.sharpendbooks.com/mt-ho...
By Climber.H
Mar 15, 2015
When would be the best time to climb it?
By youlead514
4 days ago
Are there any "safer" routes that can be done in August? Getting off the main one would be nice anyway.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!