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Mt. Hood
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cooper Spur 
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
Leuthold Couloir 
North Face, The 
Ravine 
Reid Glacier Headwall 
Sandy Glacier Headwall 
South Side Route 
Sunshine Route 
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) 
Wy'East 
Unsorted Routes:

Mt. Hood 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,239'
Lat, Long: 45.3733, -121.6957 Map
Page Views: 74,287. Good page?   
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: The beautiful north face of Hood with Eliot Glacie...

Description 

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.


Getting There 

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Hood:
Sandy Glacier Headwall   Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade IV   
Cooper Spur   Mod. Snow X     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade III   
Leuthold Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade IV   
South Side Route   Easy Snow PG13     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 feet, Grade III   
The North Face   WI3+ Mod. Snow R     Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300 feet, Grade IV   
Wy'East   Easy 5th Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 5000 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Hood

Featured Route For Mt. Hood
The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and marked.  Crossing Anderson Rock and the bergschrund will change, depending on conditions.  Earlier season ascents can go directly toward Horseshoe Rock rather than traversing West around the berg. <br /> <br />Photographed on July 9, 2011 from Cloud Cap.

Sunshine Route Mod. Snow  OR : Mt. Hood
This is a great, relatively easy route up Mount Hood, avoiding the crowds of the South Side and catching great views of Adams, Rainier, and St. Helens along the way.From Cloud Cap on the North side of Mount Hood, ascend the Timberline Trail to the moraine and continue toward Cooper Spur until reaching a large cairn. Follow the climber's trail down to the Eliot Glacier. Cross the glacier and head for the Snow Dome, ascend the dome and continue past Anderson Rock, trending up and right looking f...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR


Photos of Mt. Hood Slideshow Add Photo
The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in the distance.

The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in...

Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.

Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.

speak softly and wear a loud shirt.  driving up to cooper spur

speak softly and wear a loud shirt. driving up to...

Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been done and I'm looking at another to do...

Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...

Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2009 8:05am

BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...

Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon

Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon

The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood

The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood

The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood

The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood

Looking back at the other climbers.

Looking back at the other climbers.

Look at all that fun to be had!!

Look at all that fun to be had!!

Watching another climber make his way up.

Watching another climber make his way up.

Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, Oregon

Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...


Comments on Mt. Hood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006

According to recent news reports, this is the 2nd most climbed mountain in the world. Any clue as to the 1st?

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Dec 18, 2006

From what I've heard, Mt. Hood is the 2nd most glaciated mountain climbed in the world. Mt. Fuji is #1.

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 11, 2007

Has anyone climbed Hood in August?
I'm considering it but it would be my first climb involving glacier travel and I'm not sure I'm up to it. Any thoughts?
Thanks.

By Nate Farr
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 6, 2008

Hood's not recommended in August because rockfall gets too bad. Most people would say up until June, and then again once the rock freezes up in the late fall.