Great climb that approaches the namesake hole up high. IMO it's really pretty easy into a V3ish(+?) crux off small edges into an awkward throw/fall into a slopey edge out right, then a slick move up to good edges, and it's over. Regarding the grade, it seems most think it's not quite 12, but for me the crux moves were a little tougher than anything on Wasp Mentality which is concensus 11c, so I am going to put 11d, realizing it's certainly not a sustained 11d and that not everyone will agree with that, esp. Adam and Kris, whose opinions I respect greatly and have been climbing longer than me.
RCM&W #8, p.117
Location
Find the big hole on the cliff wall on the very left-most little bolted area, follow the line of bolts directly below. If I remember right this line shares the anchors with the climb just to the left, Suicide Squeeze. Anybody feel free to correct me if this is wrong.
Protection
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
Agree with Adam on the 11b rating. Ratings are just numbers but they need to relate routes to one another - especially when they are on the same cliff. Giving 12a to a one move wonder Cyclops and 11c to the more difficult Wasp Mentality, which is only 10 yards to the left, is inconsistent.
By Jonathan Williams From: now La Crosse, WI Mar 25, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
I would grade this harder than the 11s on this cliff. The crimps are very small and polished, esp. with humidity. And while the sole hard move on this climb is harder than the 11s, you're right in that it is not at all sustained.
Cyclops Area
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