Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.
RCM&W #9, p. 117
Location
Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.
Protection
7 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag.a crash pad is not a bad idea here.
This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top.
The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned. A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day.
By Bob Kryzer From: Mantorville, Minnesota Sep 1, 2008
Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start
Just climbed this route and the start is great. It is not to polished and it is very crimpy, in a good way. I really didn't notice that the second bolt was placed awkardly because of the rockfall, so I don't know. Anyways this is a great route and comes highly recommended.
The start and finish are the cruxes in my opinion, and no I don't believe it is a number grade harder because of the rock fall.
And this climb is very well bolted for anyone who is wondering. Have fun.
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