Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
David's Castle Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Rocky's Roof T 
Between the Betwix S,TR 
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 
Castle Corner T 
Caterpillar T,TR 
Chim-Chimney T 
Electra S 
Energy Czar S 
Fourplay T 
Golden Overhang T 
Golden Shower T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Instant Karma T 
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 
Pink Flamingo T 
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 
Rediscovery T 
Respirator T 
Sadistic Rhythm T 
Temporary Tradition T 
Two Step S 
What Else Is There To Do? T 

Instant Karma Direct 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Gil Harder, Kip Connor FFA: Rodney Lanier, Wes Love
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.

OPTIONS-

1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.

2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.

I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.


Location 

Twenty feet right of 'Energy Czar'. Look for the left-facing corner that leads to a crack above.


Protection 


North Carolina Trad Rack.



Comments on Instant Karma Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013

Awesome route!!! Takes good gear and provides some healthy pump with a solid rest after the business! Oh so fun!