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Hot Fudge (variation) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,147
Submitted By: JasonT on Aug 28, 2008
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Jon susses out the sequence for this variation.
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Description 

As Hot Fudge is generally described as a traverse from under Donut Hole, this line runs from directly under the crack. There are one or two nice jugs at the start which lead into a very small pinch and a great lunge to the left. That is definitely the crux and makes this line significantly harder. This then leads into the Hot Fudge crack, which I would rate an 8-. Nice climb.


Protection 

TR or 2 - #1 Camalots, 1 - 8 hexcentric, 1- size 12 BD nut.



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By JasonT
Aug 28, 2008

Sean Odell originally described this route in 2002, but it is not in Tom Hansen's book. It should be; however, because it is really a great variation and much more challenging.

By Tom Hanson
Aug 29, 2008

Hi Jason,

I don't have a copy in front of me, but I believe you're mistaken.
I think this line is listed in my guide and named Fudge Face.

By JasonT
Aug 29, 2008

That's possible, but I think from the guide Fudge Face is a few feet further to the right. I have the guide out now and it speaks of Fudge Face being a smooth face to the right of Hot Fudge. The route I am speaking of actually begins directly under the crack of Hot Fudge and works its way into the actual crack itself. It is just a much much harder start than initial traverse of Hot Fudge. Damn all this Fudge talk is making me hungry!!

By Brian Collins
From: Parker, CO
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I agree with everyone - this one is probably best described as Hot Fudge Direct - climb face just under the vertical part of Hot Fudge crack and join the crack about 12 feet off the deck. Dicey and balancy - nice start to up the challenge if you do this on TR.

By Dan Cillo
From: The Great State -Colorado
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

This is a great route, which we lead on gear and was very solid on placements. Starting on the large pocket about shoulder height, reach left to the crimp sidepull. Layback pinch the pocket with the rock embedded in it. With the right hand and make a somewhat long reach to the crimpy rail 2 feet above on decent feet. A little runout out on the bouldery first 10-12 feet, but once moving from the crimpy rail, lock your fingers into the crack. Here is the first available placement for gear a #1 Camalot. Layback and stem to the top out on the fun 5.8 rest of the route. I placed a total 4 pieces 2 - #1 Camalots, 1 - 8 hexcentric, 1- size 12 BD nut.