Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,868 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Mar 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Heading north from the climbers' trail junction with the cliff locate a crack with a pocket/ hole a few moves off the deck. The first move is tricky to figure out but after that you climb up through the pocket and crack with a great nut placement at the top of the first crack. Pick your own line from here, with many variations possible. The last move off the ledge to the top is a face move to the bolts.

Protection

Nuts, cams to #3 or 4, Hexes, slings to set up anchor. There are bolts on top.

Photos

A lot more fun than the name suggests. Nice combination of crack, layback, and face techniques. Once gaining the first big ledge above the Rat's Nest, heading directly up the face seems easier than following the crack (which becomes rather off-widthy for a stretch) but both are entertaining. Jun 7, 2002
It was a great route, and easy to top rope. Three anchors right at the top. It was really fun, a good confidence builder. Use the crack that is right above the Rat's Nest to make a good move to get above it. Aug 9, 2005
Kyle P.
Lander, WY
 
Kyle P.   Lander, WY
 
Fun sequences to get to jugs. Great way to kick off in the 5.8-5.9 range. Nov 22, 2007
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.8
I enjoyed this climb on toprope. First move is tough for shorter people, but I am just tall enough (6'2") to reach the rats nest from the ground. I followed the crack all the way, but you can move onto the face as well. If you go all the way onto the rim, the last move is sweet. Mar 21, 2008
Marc Stuive
Parker, Co
  5.8 PG13
Marc Stuive   Parker, Co
  5.8 PG13
Great climb, with great holds. The first move seems to be the crux. Fun and enjoyable. Jun 21, 2009
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.8
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.8
Climbed today as a TR, the route is in great shape, the bolts are in great shape as well. Apr 9, 2012