Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,616 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

67 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Climb the face up to the black, wet, left-facing dihedral. This is a major water runoff whenever it has rained or snow is melting. If you can find it dry, it's a great steep route with as many face holds as jamming.


Cams in the finger-hand size.


Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
Note: Ratings are subjective!!

I have a couple guide books that show this is sent at 5.7+. I don't feel this is any harder than 5.8. It has a couple awkard stances that may produce the feeling of it being harder than it really is. This is in my opinion and no disrespect to Ben. Jan 9, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
Keep your hands in the crack for an increased rating; also, for a clean start, there is an undercling for your right hand that is found in a plumb line with the crack. Start with this to keep to the route. This is better than starting up the face then moving right. Fun route, lots of options for feet and hands. Mar 25, 2002
For what its worth, I found this route to be interesting and sustained and probably worthy of a 9- (ish) rating. Whatever number you attach to it, this route demands a really cool combination of crack and face styles and if it wasn't for the potential for it to be wet at times, I'd call it a three-star. Jun 1, 2002
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
Good route but easy. Nice warmup, if a 9 definitely a -. Using the crack as a layback definitely makes it easier. On my second climb of this doing a layback allowed my to fly up this. Sep 18, 2002
Ben Mottinger    
Now that I think about this, it is more like 5.8. I just put the rating posted in Tom's book. Sep 18, 2002
Dan Mottinger  
While not a hard 5.9, I believe this route deserves the 5.9 rating. Steep sustained and a few tricky techniques when leading it. When compared to 5.8 trad climbs at the Wood, this climb is a notch harder, IMHO. Mar 20, 2003
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Try this one barefoot for some real fun! May 1, 2003
pinchepaco Gomez
castle rock, co
pinchepaco Gomez   castle rock, co
This is one of the best warm up climbs on this wall. very fun. it also comes with an annoying amount of rope drag. Sep 21, 2004
Captain Splatt
Captain Splatt  
The hardest part of this route is the start, and it isn't all that hard as it is tricky. As for the rest of the climb, stems ane liebacks make the route easy. Technical but fun. 5.7+ all the way. Oct 9, 2006
Durango, CO
tyler88   Durango, CO
This is a fun route, but I got a hex stuck about 1/4 of the way up. Feel free to use it, definitely solid. Or if you get it out good job. May 2, 2007
Mike Carrington
Mike Carrington   Centenntial
Hold broke off of the climb about 3/4 of the way up some time in the last few weeks. I was soloing it and noticed right away it was missing. Oct 10, 2008
If I was planning on leading it, I'd want a bouldering pad available. I'd say a hold broke off somewhere about 8 feet up in the giant hole. No real pro for maybe 10-12 feet, and a sketchy start make it a difficult lead. The rest of the route is much easier. Oct 17, 2012
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
Over the years, with holds breaking off and others becoming polished, this route has become a stiff 5.9, perhaps even harder when wet. Great route. Jun 8, 2014